You Are Looking for Me??? - the King of Hades (大士爷) Effigy

你找我啊？？我来啦。。。 
(You are looking for me??? I am coming....)

This year, it is very hard to find large scale Hungry Ghost celebrations (also known as Phor Thor) in Malaysia due to the Covid-19 pandemic as we are still in the Recovery Movement Control Order (RMCO) imposed by the government.

To be able to find a King of Hades or Da Shi Yeh (大士爷) effigy to photograph is like looking for a needle in a haystack. Luckily a friend informed me that at Sunway Mentari they will be holding their Hungry Ghost Festival as usual albeit in a small scale, complete with the King of Hades paper effigy.

The image is the reflection of the King of Hades effigy on a puddle of water on the road at Sunway Mentari Hungry Ghost Festival which is happening from the 1st to the 5th Sept 2020. Caught his reflection in a puddle of water on the road as if he is coming out from the Underworld...

And this is how the altar setup is like... Everything is there, the King of Hades, Tua Pek and Jee Pek, the Gold and Silver Mountain, ships for the souls to reach salvation (3 small ones)... paper house for the departed etc. although somewhat scaled down in size to fit in the praying location.

This is how the altar setup looks like at Sunway Mentari Phor Thor... all there but
scaled down to fit the location as they cannot hold big outdoor event under
the RMCO (Recovery Movement Control Order.

If you want to know more about the taboos during this festival, see my previous post about "Hungry Ghost Month Taboos..."

Hungry Ghost Month Taboos...

There are many Chinese taboos associated with the Hungry Ghost month. Listed below are 13 of them and the apparent reason(s) for those taboos, as well as a lighthearted take on those reasons...

1. Don't go out at night...

You will bump into the wandering hungry ghost and either piss them off or they are attracted to you. If they are mad at you, then they will play pranks on you or sabotage what you do. If they like you, worst still.... you now have an invisible stalker. Imagine you having to make a police report that a 'hamsap' (perverted) ghost is stalking you... So no late night mamak eating trips or driving around okay...

2. Don't hang your laundry out in the open at night...

Ghost will be attracted to your laundry and stick to it, bringing negative energy to you when you wear your clothes.. Maybe it is the nice smelling laundry detergent you use or the softener?? Or maybe your laundry ain't clean enough and they have a smelly shirt/dress/underwear fetish?? 

3. Don't step or kick the offerings for the hungry ghost on the roadside...

The ghost will get angry if you disturb or kick their offerings... I guess if you go try and step on your family meal before they have eaten, or kick your friends/colleagues/parents/children dinner before they start eating or during their meal.... sure get whacked right??? So don't do it for goodness sake.

4. Do not step on the joss paper money offering on the roadside...

Stepping on their money is a sure way of pissing them off... If I see real money on the road, I will step on it and then bend down and pretend to tie my shoelaces before picking up the money, so I guess maybe the ghost thinks that you are after their moolah when you step on it.... which is bad.

5. Do not get married during the Hungry Ghost month...

They love ceremonies and parties that have candles and joss sticks and food. Also they might prank your wedding ceremony because they cannot be part of it or worst still, during the ceremony take up the same space as your partner... now you wonder which one did you marry huh, the human, the ghost or both???

6. Do not hold your wedding banquet during Hungry Ghost month....

If you had no choice and got married in the Hungry Ghost month, then for goodness sake do not hold your banquet dinner until the month is over... Why??? Food and tables and chairs and stage entertainment.... are you sure your banquet guest are all human or.... ghost???

7. No renovation during the Hungry Ghost month...

One reason is you disturb the peace and tranquility of the area and they don't like it. The other reason is if you had removed doors, windows, walls or roof, the ghosts can go in and hang about., and you are doomed if the job is done before the 7th month is over.... you sure 'sui' liao (badly jinxed) as the ghost might remain inside and you get a free 'maid' for the month.

8. No swimming especially at night during this month...

They are looking for another soul to replace their position and will pull you down to drown you. Now have you wondered if you piss when swimming or swim naked will they be scared off? Skinny dipping anyone?

9. If you are certain that you are walking alone, do not turn around or answer when someone calls your name...

Apparently humans have three 'flames' that protect one from being possessed, one on the forehead and one on each shoulder. So by quickly turning around the flames on the shoulders can be put off... At least I can tell my friends that I am a natural fire juggler.... If you need to turn around, slowly walk in a semi circle to face the other direction instead of swinging your head around. Hmmm, if I carry several fire torches, will that help??

10. Do not open an umbrella inside the house, or carry an open umbrella inside the house... 

It is believed that ghosts can and will hide under an opened umbrella to stay away from the sun (reminds me of someone who goes bleh bleh bleh; or they must be suffering from photosensitivity or are albino) and by bringing an open umbrella in or opening one inside your house, you allow them to go into the house via the umbrella. So is Rihanna referring to ghosts in her song Umbrella??? At least this proves that the umbrella is a versatile transportation device like how Mary Poppins uses it.

11. Do not stick chopsticks or eating utensils upright on rice or food not meant for the dead.... 

That is how food is offered to spirits. Then they will fight with you when you want to eat the food... see who can eat faster. Actually you don't do that all the time, not just during Hungry Ghost month. 

12. When you see seats set out in front of stages during the Hungry Ghost festival, never ever take the front row seats that are left empty for the ghosts...

Remember the Phantom of the Opera and what happened when they didn't leave Box 5 empty for him.... same thing if you try to take the front row seats. I would gladly leave the front row seats for them anyway... too near to the stage and neck pain to look up all the time at stage, plus speakers are too close and damaging to my eardrums... the best seats are somewhat in the middle, like in cinemas.

13. Never ever put a baby on the offering table at Hungry Ghost festival... or anything that you do not wish to offer to the spirits...

The spirits will think the baby is an offering item and proceed to consume it... Now how can anyone or anything eat a cute little baby??? Plus they piss and puke and shit everywhere... I imagine it wouldn't be the nicest piece of food to try and eat. I would rather go for the roast pig and chickens and ducks, won't you??


Click on these links to see my other posts about this festival in:

• 2016 - Are You Hungry Tonight???
• 2019 - Be Spirited Away
• 2020 - Hungry Tonight??? - Hungry Ghost Festival under the New Normal
• 2020 - You Are Looking for Me???

Hungry Tonight??? - Hungry Ghost Festival under the New Normal

Hungry Ghost Festival 2020 is here... albeit more toned down due to COVID-19 pandemic
restrictions.

Hungry Ghost Festival has started on 19th August 2020... but this year you will probably notice that there are less almost no large scale festivities (Phor Thor Celebration) locally due to the coronavirus pandemic restrictions. The so called 'new normal' in which social distancing rules applies and no big gatherings being allowed has affected the traditional Phor Thor celebration... Gone are the stage shows (getai), Chinese opera shows and large tent up areas for this celebration.

 

However, prayers offered by the roadside for wandering hungry ghosts seems to be no less than the previous year. So beware, when you are out at night and walking alone.... you might just not be alone on the streets, something might be out there, watching you go by..... (see this post about the taboos during Hungry Ghost festival)

Talisman - II

Happy Wesak Day 2020

 

Teamwork - Penang Hot Air Balloon Fiesta 2020

Inflation of MyDeerling, a special shape balloon during Penang Hot Air Balloon Fiesta 2020

Sending the Nine Emperor Gods Home - The End of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival at Ampang

As all good things must come to an end, so after nine frantic and energetic days of  trances, vegetarian meals, rituals and prayers the Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019 comes to an end. Here at Ampang Nine Emperor Gods Temple, the Nine Emperor Gods was sent off at 3.30am in the wee hours of the morning on the tenth day of the festival. Whilst the crowd wasn't as large as the invitation ceremony (probably due to the ungodly hour), the atmosphere was still very much charged with the religious fervour of the festival.

So long, farewell... devotees from Ampang Nine Emperor Gods Temple sending the Nine
Emperor Gods off at the end of the festival.

Exhausted and drained, it was a rather solemn and quiet affair as devotees escort the Nine Emperor Gods on the journey back to the river, and with hope and certainty that next year we will meet again...

Dates for Nine Emperor Gods Festival in 2020:

• Eve of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival - 16th October 2020
• 1st Day of Nine Emperor Gods Festival - 17th October 2020
• 9th Day of Nine Emperor Gods Festival - 25th October 2020

Click here for the 1st post in the series of 2020 Nine Emperor Gods Festival Countdown post.

Kuala Pilah Nine Emperor Gods Procession 2019 - Walking in the Rain

And we were walking in the rain... but the light drizzle eventually stopped as the procession began. The rain didn't dampen the spirits of the participants and also helped to make the night a cool and pleasant walk for the Nine Emperor Gods procession that meandered through the old parts of Kuala Pilah town.

Walking (or rather waiting...) in the rain... Participants of Kuala Pilah Nine Emperor Gods
Festival waiting for the signal to begin their annual procession.

Crossing the Fire Pit - Kuala Pilah Nine Emperor Gods Temple

Yesterday, on the 6th day of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, Cheryl, Kirk and I decided to head down south to Kuala Pilah Nine Emperor Gods Temple (Si Thian Kong -  西天宫) as we found out that the Thai mediums which the temple had invited were going to do their fire crossing that night.

Of course we left for the temple early (3pm) from KL in anticipation that there will be quite some activity late in the evening before the actual fire-crossing ceremony, which usually happens at night.

One for the show...performing for the Nine Emperor Gods.

We managed to catch the opera troupe perform a ritual performance for the Nine Emperor Gods in the evening, before the Thai mediums went into trance and was performing many self-mutilation acts like tongue cutting and hitting their backs or stomach with knives and axes to draw blood to empower talisman for the devotees.

Cutting... Drawing blood for talisman.

I Believe I Can Fly!

Spray... When things get too hot to handle!

Run, run across the fire pit.

I will carry you through...

But the best part was the fire-crossing ceremony, as this type of fire pit made by burning wood into embers that is typical of Thai mediums is usually very much hotter than the ones done with compressed charcoal bed typical of Chinese temples in Malaysia.

Having crossed this type of fire pit before in Jinjang, I know that speed is essential and that mediums and people crossing it will end up running or literally flying through the hot embers.

At the end of the day, the local folks and Sing Sua Sifu kept us company with food and drinks until the wee hours of the next day, and it was truly an exhausting but fun trip.

It is a wrap...

Faces of Nine Emperor Gods Festival Jinjang - the Priest

The Taoist priest is an indispensable person during the Nine Emperor Gods Festival. Like many Taoist and syncretic Chinese religious festivals, the priest is responsible for all the consecration ceremonies of the ritual space and altar, which is done with the help of his assistants and accompanying musicians.

 

Despite his age, Mr Lim's movements are still full of energy and his voice always thundering above the cacophony of the drums, cymbals and bells during prayer sessions. If you visit Jinjang Nine Emperor Gods Festival, do try to catch a glimpse of the prayer ceremonies led by him, you will be amazed at his vitality and vocal power.

 

  

It has begun... the Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019

The sudden heavy downpour this evening at Ampang, which threatened to make this year's Nine Emperor Gods invitation ceremony a repeat of last year's rain drenched event, did not deter the participating devotees at all. Furthermore many had learnt a lesson from last year's event and thus came prepared with raincoats, ponchos and umbrellas.

Fortunately for them, the sky quickly cleared and by the time the procession was making its way back to the temple through the main road of Ampang old town, it was a clear and breezy evening. With the start of this festival, the usually quiet Ampang New Village is transformed into a hive of activity as devotees and casual visitors from near and far all pour in to see or participate in this festival.

Same same but Different - the Nine Emperor Gods Festival

If you ask me which temple is better to see or shoot Nine Emperor Gods Festival, my reply would be... they are all 'same same but different'. And if you ask me if what has changed over the years that I have followed this festival, my answer would still be... 'same same but different'.

In my opinion, this popular South-east Asian phrase 'Same same but different' very aptly describes this festival.... and here is why I feel it is so:

• Same same rites and rituals but there are (minor) differences...
• Same same schedule of event every year, with minor tweaks and additions or omissions...
• Same same people participate every year, except they are one year older...
• Same same deity but the invitation timing is different...
• Same same concept of invitation (from a body of water) but locations are different (river, sea, etc)
• Same same God that they pray to but rules of who can participate in the festival and/or fire walking is different from temple to temple
• Same same kind of vegetarian food, but prices are way way different.
• Same same shots taken... but many different stories can be told from the shots of the festival...

So my advice is... go and enjoy this 'Same same but different' festival and don't fret it if you miss something this year... there is always next year... as it will be... 'Same same but different'

So my countdown to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019 posts comes to a close today with this post as tomorrow (28th Sept 2019) will be the eve of this festival... Remember that some temples will carry out the invitation ceremony tomorrow in the evening whilst some do it much closer to midnight... same same but different ya!

Almost time for.... Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019

Just a few more days to the start of Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019. So here is a survival checklist to help you gauge if you are ready for the festival:

1. White clothes, pants and head cover.
2. Vegetarian foodstuff - think of tofu and mock meat, fermented bean paste to seaweed
3. Camera and accessories
4. White candles, red tortoise buns and yellow talismans
5. Stamina
6. and even more stamina to last the nine days

For those who are looking for Ampang Nine Emperor Gods 2019 schedule of events, please visit Cheryl's post for the schedule of events and more info (link below):

• Haze Move Over! Dates for the 2019 Festival (Ampang Style).

Counting down to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019

4 more days to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019....well, 3 more days to the eve of the festival. Many who participate in this festival would most likely be starting their bland vegetarian diet today so as to be 'clean' during the invitation on the eve of the festival. Many temples that celebrate this festival would also already be bustling with the preparations for this annual festival.

Let the spirits descend - the Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019

The Nine Emperor Gods festival, which is starting is 5 days time, is associated with spirit mediums and trances of various deities including those of the Nine Emperor Gods. With these trances, acts of self mortification such as blood letting and body piercing are signs that the divine has taken over the body of the medium and that he or she does not feel any pain. Furthermore the blood letting is also both a sacrifice and purification of the space and surroundings, and thus is often carried out with great spiritual fervor. So let the spirits descend....

When (does it start): 29th Sept 2019 to 7th October 2019 (the eve falls on 28th Sept)

Where (can I see this festival): Nine Emperor Gods temples in South East Asia

What (to do): Eat vegetarian, see mediums perform rituals, watch parades, fire walking etc.

For those who are looking for the schedule of events at Ampang Nine Emperor Gods Festival, surf over to Cheryl's post in her site - Haze Move over! Dates for the 2019 Festival (Ampang Style) for the schedule and lots more info regarding the festival.

Ready to sek zhai (吃斋/gin je)? The Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019

The Nine Emperor Gods Festival is coming, hence the question of being ready to eat vegetarian (chi zhai/sek zhai/吃斋). This festival which is celebrated in South-East Asia is synonymous with a bland vegetarian diet and in Southern Thailand, Gin je (กินเจ) or literally ‘eat vegetarian’ is synonymous with the festival.

Whilst most people associate the festival with the first nine days of the ninth lunisolar month, the festival actually takes off on the eve on the ninth month (last day of the eight lunisolar month) and concludes on the 10th day of the ninth month. Some who participate in this event would have had started their vegetarian diet a few days before the festival, so as to be ‘clean’ when inviting the deity which happens on the eve of the festival or in the wee hours of the first day of the festival.

Conversely, after nine days of festivities, the flag pole and the armies of heavenly guardians called to protect the temple and devotees during the festival would be sent off on the tenth day of the festival, one day after the last day of the Nine Emperor Gods festival.

This year the first day of the festival falls on 29 September 2019 and the ninth day falls on the 7 October 2019. The most obvious signs that a temple is celebrating the festival are temple flags being erected on roads leading to the temple grounds as well as vegetarian food stalls being erected. These stalls that sell suitable bland vegetarian food are usually marked with yellow banners displaying the word zhai/斋 or su/素; or in Southern Thailand, je/เจ.

• When (does it start): 29th Sept 2019 to 7th October 2019 (the eve falls on 28th Sept)
• Where (can I see this festival): Nine Emperor Gods temples in South East Asia
• What (to do): Eat vegetarian, see mediums perform rituals, watch parades, fire walking etc.

See also my other post about this year's Ampang Nine Emperor Gods Festival:

It has begun... the Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019

Be Spirited Away - Hungry Ghost Festival

Come August - September each year, a familiar sight fills the cities and countryside of East Asia and South-East Asian countries like Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand, Taiwan and Indonesia. Offerings of food litter the roadside, with joss-sticks and candles stuck to the ground or placed in small containers by the sidewalk. In some places, large makeshift altars pop up (commonly referred to as Phor Thor/Pudu celebration by locals), more often than not piled up with various food items as well as huge bundles of joss-paper as offerings - this is the Hungry Ghost Festival that the Chinese diaspora practices come the Lunar 7th month each year.

The celebration has its roots in the Buddhist Ullambana (盂蘭盆 - Pravāraṇā Day) prayers for pretas and/or departed spirits after the monks had completed their rainy season retreat), but is merged with the Taoist Zhong Yuan Di Guan Festival (中元地官节) or Zhong Yuan Festival, coupled with syncretic spirit worship. Regardless of the roots, this festival is strongly pivoted around the belief of filial piety and retribution. 

The festival basically runs for the entire Chinese lunar 7th month and on this year (2019) falls on August 1 untill Aug 29, but peaks on the 14th/15th of the lunar month as well as towards the end of the lunar month. In Part 1 of this festival, we bring you the essential elements of the Hungry Ghost Festival.

1. Offerings

Food, food and more food.... plus joss paper and hell bank notes, candles and joss-sticks

2. The King of Hades and paper effigies

When the ghost are roaming about, who do you call?? The King of Hades and the Underworld deities. The effigy is a common sight in large scale Phor Thor celebration.

3. Entertainment - Traditional Opera vs Modern Getai 

Traditional opera versus modern stage acts featuring scantily clad singers and suggestive gyrating moves (la mei).

4. Salvation Prayers (Chao Du)
This includes the symbolic act of Breaking the Walls of Hell (Hell is a paper fort with flimsy paper doors!!) by the priest and the sprinting of the deceased from Hell by their relatives to a ship waiting to set sail for Western Paradise.

5. Trances and spirit mediums
In some places, spirit mediums and trance sessions are part of the festival.

6. The Big Burn aka Sending Off the Deities and Spirits
All the paper effigies, unburnt joss sticks, candles, offerings plus lots of joss money are piled up and set on fire to return the King of Hades and his retinue back to where they belong as well as to send the deceased to heaven.

The Good Fight.... 1st Chetawan Muay Championship 2019

One on the face.... Muay championship at Wat Chetawan in Petaling Jaya, Malaysia.

Lighting Up Kek Lok Si Temple for Chinese New Year

The lights of Kek Lok Si Temple in the blue hour during Chinese New Year

 

Come every Chinese New Year, the famous Kek Lok Si Temple (Temple of Supreme Bliss) in Air Itam, Penang will be lit with lanterns and LED lights, turning it into a sort of light display wonderland. This yearly tradition no doubt attracts a lot of tourist and photographers wanting to capture this beautiful light display.
 
The lights of the temple will come on with the following schedule:

• January 24 to February 8 2019 :  7.30pm till midnight
• February 9 to February 21 2019: 7.30pm till 10pm

 
In my opinion, the best times are during the blue hour, which last only 15min or so, plus at that time, the lights are just being turned on in stages, so you will probably have at most 10 mins to shoot the lights in the blue hour. It is best to go before dark and sort of scout out which angle you prefer, and you might need to go on several occasions to get a good sky. I was lucky to get some clouds this time around.

Parking space at this temple are available at three different levels, the first and the lowest actually consist of three tiers, and the entrance is just past the shops as you turn in to ascend the road up the hill. The second is a smaller car park with an entrance arch leading to the Goddess of Mercy Hall, and with a good view of the Pagoda of 10,000 Buddhas. The final parking area is somewhat limited and is located at the Goddess of Mercy (Guan Yin) statue area. If you park there, it is some distance up the hilly terrain and you would have to take the tram down to the main temple to view the main temple complex.

Thaipusam 2019 - Steps to Purification