Counting Down to Thaipusam 2023 - 49 More Days

As the year comes to an end, it is time to prepare for the coming year. Tomorrow (December 20th) marks the start of the 48 day fast (mandala viratham) for those who intend to carry kavadi (burden) for the coming Thaipusam (in February 2023).

In Malaysia, Thaipusam falls on February 5th 2023. Whilst the Pusam star in the month of Thai in 2023 reaches the highest point around 1.13pm on the 4th of February 2023, the festival is officially set for the following day.

This is because Thaipusam can only considered to begin after the Theertochavam ceremony of Lord Muruga's Vel (bathing of the divine spear) had been carried out and that ceremony can only be conducted in the morning. Hence Thaipusam officially falls on February 5th in 2023.

Carrying the kavadi (burden) is no easy feat and the preparation includes a 48 day fast. This fast or mandala viratham must be completed before the day of carrying the kavadi, and entails austerities like sleeping on the floor (no beds or soft bedding), taking only sattvic diet, taking only cold baths, abstaining from sex, and for men they will not shave or cut their hair in this period.

So today is 49 days to the actual day of Thaipusam in 2023 and we are all looking forward to the festival next year minus all the SOPs of the pandemic.

Wishing all a Merry Christmas!

Wishing all a Merry Christmas from Kuala Lumpur and looking forward to a better 2022!

The tallest Christmas tree in Malaysia at KLCC Suria (100ft tall) and is covered with over
7000 colourful baubles).

Kuda Kepang - The Dance of Two Realms

Kuda kepang, a traditional Javanese dance, is also commonly performed by the Javanese diaspora in South East Asia. In Malaysia this traditional performance is kept alive in areas of Southern Johor, where a large number of people of Javanese descent resides.

Whilst this dance can be merely a performance, in its original form it often incorporates elements of trance which is said to be caused by invited spirit possession. However with the rise of Islamization in the region, the trance portion is often left out as it is deemed un-Islamic. Hence to witness a kuda kepang performance incorporating the trance element here in Malaysia is very much a novelty and a treat.

We were lucky in KL that last night, Pusaka in collaboration with Seni Lab and 33.3studio brought Kumpulan Kuda Kepang Parit Raja Johor to Black Box, Publika in an exciting and eclectic traditional kuda kepang performance with light show and music called Cahaya 004 - Kitab Basah, and yes it was with trance as well.

The moment the dancers goes into trance, their movements seemed to take on an unearthly vibe and exudes that sublime other realm feel to the performance. It is as if something from the other side touched the entire performance and everyone in it, and for that short time, the two realms, physical and the unseen, were connected through the dancers and their movements.

It was an enthralling and a different experience that cannot be adequately described in words or by photos, and is definitely a performance that everyone should at least experience once in their lifetime for themselves.

Of Lights and Water... the Loy Krathong Festival

The Loy Krathong festival, which falls on Friday this year (19 November 2021) is one of the most picturesque festivals that is celebrated in Thailand and also by the larger Thai communities in other countries including those in certain areas of Malaysia.

This festival has its roots as a Brahminical festival to honour the Goddess Ganga (Phra Mae Khongkha - พระแม่คงคา), and is celebrated on the full moon night of the twelfth month of the Thai calendar, which usually falls within the month of November in the Gregorian calendar.

The festival also coincide with the Lanna (Northern Thailand) festival of Yi Peng, where they release sky lanterns (basically identical to the Chinese Kung Ming lantern), and is now celebrated as one amalgamated festival in Northern Thailand.

Whilst Thailand is celebrating the festival on a big scale as they have started to reopen to tourist post Covid-19 pandemic, the same can't be said for Malaysia; where it would not be publicly celebrated by the Thai communities in Klang Valley and in Penang this year due to concerns of the pandemic.

So in this post are a few pictures from the festival in Penang (at Gurney Drive) taken in 2014, and hoping that the festival will make a comeback here in Malaysia next year. Happy Loy Krathong!

Flower Power... Krathong with lovely flowers

Lighting up the krathongs...

Say a little prayer for you...

Let it go, let it go...

Sekinchan Nine Emperor Gods Festival - Invitation Ceremony for the South Star Deity on Day 2

On the night of the 2nd day of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, the Sekinchan Nine Emperor Gods temple (适耕庄南天宫九皇大帝) invited the South Star deity (南斗星君) back to their temple. Even though it was a simple ceremony without any elaborate procession or fanfare, one can sense the intense religious fervor that pervaded the ceremony emanating from the temple members and mediums in trance who were tasked with carrying it out.

The ceremony starts (as usual) with the mediums going into trance to the beat of the gongs and hand drums. This is then followed by the royal parasol, the sedan chairs and the temple entourage leaving for a selected location to do the invitation.

Upon return back to the temple, the entourage were greeted with lit firecrackers and the sedan chairs were then paraded around the temple altar table whilst being rocked hard before being placed back to their respective places in the temple after the deities on board have been let in into the temple's inner chamber. After that mediums who are still in trance attended to the various needs of the devotees.

This year, the Sekinchan Nine Emperor Gods temple is one of the few Nine Emperor Gods temple in Klang Valley whose prayers and ceremonies are open to the public whom have been fully vaccinated, and I believe it is also the only one in Klang Valley that did raise the lantern flagpole for this year's Nine Emperor Gods Festival which is accessible to the public at large.

See the next post about the North Star Deity (北斗星君) invite at Sekinchan Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2021

Another year of quiet Hungry Ghost Festival

As the Hungry Ghost Festival this year comes to a close, it has been another year of low key celebrations due to the Covid-19 pandemic.

 

No large makeshift altars were allowed here this year. Instead, people are only allowed to do prayers in temples and also private offerings outside their homes.

 

And as we reminisce upon the festive celebrations of previous years, we hope that perhaps next year we will start to see some of these traditional festivities return to normal.

Comtemplation in the Market...

A fresh seafood seller seemed to be deep in thought whilst waiting for customers to come by at Psar Chas in Siem Reap, Cambodia. This photo was taken in 2015... and with the current pandemic, I too sometimes wonder if we can ever be the same again like in pre-Covid times.

Interestingly, the word for market in Khmer is Psar... which is probably a derivative from Champa or the Malay word Pasar, which came from the Persian word Bazar. The influence of East - West trade on the word usage for market is indeed interesting.

Thaipusam 2021... Looking Back on Past Celebrations

A blessed Thaipusam to all, and even though we cannot personally attend the festival in Malaysia this year due to Covid-19 lock-down, we can always look back at happy memories of Thaipusam celebrations in the past and hopefully next year we all can join in the festivities once more.

Bathing of the Vel at Sg, Batu river during Thaipusam... (Thirthochava Ceremony)

Eight More Days to Thaipusam 2021... A Different Thaipusam due to Covid-19

Thaipusam is coming up in 8 more days, and yes this year it will be very different in Malaysia due to lock-downs brought about by Covid-19. Missing from this year's celebration would be the chariot procession, kavadis and huge crowds at Batu Caves, Penang and Ipoh as we are under lock-down that will most likely be extended beyond the festival date.

A couple carried their child up Batu Caves as a sign of gratitude for Lord Muruga's blessing,
one day before the second Covid-19 lockdown in Selangor.

Even so, some devotees managed to fulfill their vows of carrying paal kudam (pot of milk) or their baby as a sign of gratitude before the lockdown was imposed. Hopefully this will be the only year that the festival's age old traditions were broken, and we can return to nomalcy next year.

 

Vetrivel Muruganukku Arogara!

UPDATE: MKN has announced that all Thaipusam activities are NOT ALLOWED in temples within Movement Control Order (MCO) and Conditional MCO  (CMCO) states in Malaysia.

 

UPDATE 2: The Thaipusam chariot procession of Batu Caves, Penang and Ipoh has been granted permission to be held but under tight security with no devotees allowed.

Happy Thai Pongal 2021

Colourful earthenware pot for sale for the coming Pongal festival.

 

If you had noticed stalls selling sugarcane stalks complete with leaves, colourful earthenware pots, flowers and coconut leaf garlands recently in past few days is because the Thai Pongal or Pongal festival is coming up tomorrow on 14th January 2021. This festival marks the beginning of the Thai month in the Tamil calendar.

 

The festival is known as Makar Sankranti and is one of the few Indian festivals based on solar calendar terms as hence will always fall within a day or two from 14 January and marks the transition of the Sun into Capricorn.

As the majority of Indians in Malaysia are from Southern India, the festival is celebrated as Pongal here, and the name actually refers to the rice milk porridge cooked on that day in earthen pots and allowed to overflow upon boiling (a sign of abundance) and is regarded as thanksgiving. The porridge is then offered to the gods and then to family members.

 

Sugarcanes for sale for Pongal

Specifically for this festival, the Sakkarai Pongal (short grained rice cooked in jaggery and milk and and then garnished with ghee, cashew nuts and raisins) is cooked in the morning of the festival. Three sugarcane stalks are usually tied in a tripod fashion and stood over the pot used to cook the Sakkarai Pongal, hence you see the sale of sugarcane stalks by the stalls.

 

Happy Thai Pongal 2021 from Malaysia!

Can Malaysia Survive Another Covid-19 Lockdown?

On Wed 13th January 2021, Malaysia will enter into yet another lock-down as the escalating case numbers of Covid-19 cases are getting out of control. This is in spite of the fact that in the middle of last year (2020), we were one of those countries praised for the excellent handling of the Covid-19 situation; all it took was a by-election and everything has gone south ever since.

Yet Movement Control Order 2.0 may just be the last straw that broke the camel's back, as the country's economy which hadn't recovered since the first lock-down despite the relaxation of the lock-down several months later might not be able to take the brunt of another lock-down. The signs are obvious, especially small businesses that had shuttered their doors due to the pandemic.

An empty Petaling Street on a Sunday... Wonder how many customers did the old uncle
selling Ban Chang kueh (peanut pancake) gets each day?

If you take a walk in Kuala Lumpur's inner city areas like Petaling Street, you can definitely see the effects of the previous lock-down on small businesses. No longer bustling with people and with only a few stalls still open for business, Chinatown is now a ghost of its former self and actually looks more like a ghost town! Even on weekends, you could stand in the middle of Petaling Street, stretch your arms out and spin around without hitting anyone. The photo above was taken on a Sunday, just days before the second lock-down, and you can see how empty Petaling Street is.

Perhaps it is wishful thinking, but I truly hope that after this Covid-19 pandemic is over, the old uncle selling the peanut pancake will still be there.... hopefully!

So Long... Farewell Penang Ferry Service

As the year draw to a close, we bid farewell to 2020 and also the historical Penang Ferry Service, which will make its last trip today, ferrying both vehicles and passengers to and from Penang to Butterworth.

The ferry service, which started off as a passenger-only service by Quah Beng Kee and his four siblings in 1894, was later upgraded to became a vehicle and passenger service in 1925.

The operations of the ferries were later taken over in 1924 by Penang Port Sdn Bhd., a subsidiary of the Penang Port Commission (formerly Penang Harbour Board), and in 2017, it was then transferred from Penang Port Sdn. Bhd. to the Malaysian government owned Prasarana Malaysia for a token sum of RM1 and rebranded as Rapid Ferry.

I remember as a kid all the ferries were painted yellow and it was a joy when we crossed the straits as we would get down from the car to watch jellyfishes bobbing in the sea as the ferry passed by. 

Later on these ferries were given a coat of multicoloured paint (as in the picture taken in 2014) and in 2017, some of these iconic ferries even had attractions of Penang painted on them!

The iconic Penang Ferry (Pulau Angsa) as seen in 2014 from the Hean Boo Thean floating
temple in Weld Quay, Penang.

 

Alas the ferry service will come to an end as 2020 closes... and this Penang iconic monument with 125 years of service history will be relegated to mere mentions in history books and our fond memories of the past. Farewell to our beloved Penang Ferry!

Menurun....

Menurun or going in trance is part and parcel of the practice of Datuk Kong (Keramat) worship by Chinese Malaysians. It is the one of the ways in which devotees can communicate with the deity or keramat, and this process of  menurun or 'inviting' the keramat to possess the body of the spirit medium entails the generous burning of kemenyan (Styrax benzoin) that at times can leave the entire scene whitewashed in kemenyan smoke!

As the deity or keramat can be a local saint, or tree spirit or even past rulers of the land, the appearance of the mediums in trance with these deities are different, reflecting the origin of the deity summoned. Once the deity has 'arrived' in the body of the spirit medium, they would be dressed accordingly, and served with the deity's favourite beverage or smokes before any consultation session starts.

With each of the keramat being a different individual, the spirit medium upon being possessed by them will also take on a particular mannerism and characteristics associated with the deity; those are supposed to be possessed by an old saint will suddenly have shaky hands and need to walk with a cane, others being possessed by local spirits of wild animals will violently growl and grunt and act like the animal spirit, whilst those that are previous rulers will take on a regal and distinguished appearance and countenance.

Something old.. Something new - the Merdeka 118

Something new is beginning to stand up in kuala Lumpur - the Merdeka 118 tower. As of middle of this year, it is the tallest construction site in the world. When completed, it will be the world's second tallest skyscraper.

The Merdeka 118 tower under construction as seen from an old part of KL (the Zhong Shan
building in Kg. Attap).

Flower Power... the Florists of Chalai Bazaar Trivandrum

Chalai Bazaar in Trivandrum, Kerala India is a colourful and bustling market, and one of those where you have got be a little brave, and walk down the alleyways to shops hidden beyond the main thoroughfare. From plastic household items to fresh fruits, highland tea to hardware, and metal cooking pots to underwear, anything that you need in your house or for personal use, you can get it here.

 

But what I liked most are the florist/flower shops that are found here. Some only do the traditional Indian flower garlands and loose flowers for prayers, whilst others also sell modern bouquets for happy occasions and wreaths for funerals. So the next time you are in Trivandrum, spend some time in Chalai Bazaar and try to spot those shops and corner stalls that sell flower power, the florist of Chalai Bazaar.

Streets of Kathmandu... Rugs for Sale

Looking back at the streets of Kathmandu... a Nepali rug seller with his goods hung out on display on the sidewalk of Tridevi Sadak, which is a stone's throw away from the famous Thamel district, photo taken in June 2016.

Errr.... Om Namah Shivaya Che Guevara???

Dou Mu and The Ninth Day of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival

The ninth day of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, which is the last day of the festival, is also the birthday (or more correctly the manifestation anniversary) of Dou Mu (斗姆元君), the Mother Goddess of the Nine Emperor Gods.

Prayers specifically to Dou Mu on this day to ask for her blessings are believed to be very efficacious, and temples would usually conduct this prayer today, besides holding the usual events for Nine Emperor Gods Festival such as fire walking or bridge crossing.

Unfortunately this year's festival had been dampened by the Covid-19 pandemic and is very much a non-event in many parts of Malaysia. And as we bid this year's not so happening Nine Emperor Gods Festival goodbye, we can only hope that next year we get to enjoy all the festivities as usual again.

Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020 Day 6 - A Different Feeding the Armies (犒军) Ceremony at Ampang

The Feeding of the Heavenly Armies Ceremony (Ko Kun - 犒军) during Nine Emperor Gods Festival at Ampang Nine Emperor Gods Temple is usually a very crowded and vibrant event, with devotees and onlookers jostling to get a glimpse of what is happening.

However, this year with the Covid-19 pandemic and the government imposed movement control order, it has resulted in a very different and strangely quiet ceremony, carried out only by the temple committee members sans the priest, large amount of food, mediums and thronging devotees  in white.

 

A Smoky but Silent Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020 at Ampang

Today is the eve of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020, and I decided to pass by Ampang Nine Emperor Gods temple at 5pm to see how things were going. The gates were locked and as you can see from the pictures, it was a silent affair due to the lock-down imposed by the government recently.

 

Despite being quiet and very unbecoming of the festival we know of, it was still smoky, as the temple caretakers had already lit the large joss sticks that had been ordered by devotees prior to the lock-down.

A truly different take on the festival this year, smoky.... but silent!

The Day The Music Died... How the 'New Normal' has Affected the Ampang Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020

Today is exactly 7 days to the eve of this year's Nine Emperor Gods Festival, and as the festival draws near, one cannot help feel a little disappointed as nothing much is actually happening due to the Covid-19 pandemic.

With the ongoing Covid-19 situation in Malaysia, the decision was made by the the Ampang Nine Emperor Gods temple management on the 16th of September to cancel this year's festivities altogether, although the temple will still be open for worshipers. For me, the once in a year 'life' of Ampang New Village has literally being 'silenced' by this decision.

And that means there will be no loud Chinese opera music from the temple this year, no clanging of temple bells and lion dance troupes bashing cymbals and drums on the eve of the festival this year, no loud announcements from the temple of people looking for their relatives etc....

Looking back at one of my post from 2019 when I said that the festival has always been Same same but Different (click to read that post in 2019), little did I know that I would be be proven so wrong this year, with the festival turning out to be very, very different. Perhaps I should have taken back what I have said about the festival being a 'repeat year in year out'.

Perhaps all we can hope (and pray) for is that in 2021, the festival will return to normal, whatever normal might be then...

So here's a list of a few other things that we will be missing this year at Ampang without the Nine Emperor Gods Festival...

• Massive traffic crawl from Jalan Ampang leading to the temple.
  
• Friendly old aunties staying in the dorm (will miss seeing them having aged one more year)
  
• The crowd formed by devotees dressed all in white during the Feeding of the Heavenly Armies (Ko Kun)
• The stalls lining the roads leading to the temple and in the temple courtyard
• Processions for the invitation of the Nine Emperor Gods and Finance Minister
• Bridge crossing and fire walking and...
  
• Cheryl Hoffmann... she has gone back to be at her daughter's wedding (Congrats!!!)... I hope she will be back to join us in 2021
  

Next post - Covid-19 and the cancellation of Nine Emperor Gods Festival in Klang Valley:

• No Go for Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020 in Ampang and KL

Previous post in this countdown series to Nine Emperor Gods 2020 series:

• Fire and Purification - The Nine Emperor Gods Festival