Counting Down to Thaipusam 2023 - 49 More Days

As the year comes to an end, it is time to prepare for the coming year. Tomorrow (December 20th) marks the start of the 48 day fast (mandala viratham) for those who intend to carry kavadi (burden) for the coming Thaipusam (in February 2023).

In Malaysia, Thaipusam falls on February 5th 2023. Whilst the Pusam star in the month of Thai in 2023 reaches the highest point around 1.13pm on the 4th of February 2023, the festival is officially set for the following day.

This is because Thaipusam can only considered to begin after the Theertochavam ceremony of Lord Muruga's Vel (bathing of the divine spear) had been carried out and that ceremony can only be conducted in the morning. Hence Thaipusam officially falls on February 5th in 2023.

Carrying the kavadi (burden) is no easy feat and the preparation includes a 48 day fast. This fast or mandala viratham must be completed before the day of carrying the kavadi, and entails austerities like sleeping on the floor (no beds or soft bedding), taking only sattvic diet, taking only cold baths, abstaining from sex, and for men they will not shave or cut their hair in this period.

So today is 49 days to the actual day of Thaipusam in 2023 and we are all looking forward to the festival next year minus all the SOPs of the pandemic.

The Hill, the Mist and the Leaf Monkeys...

Penang Hill have always been close to my heart, ever since I first set foot on this hill station when I was about four or five years old. I remember enjoying the photo sessions by my dad with my mum and my brother at Bellevue Hotel, and loving the cool crisp air and the lovely flowers in the garden. On the other hand I also demonstrated this irrational fear of the misty and cold Summit Road during that first trip; maybe it was because at that age, I perceived that the foggy and misty road were swallowing up people who walked into it and cried when my parents wanted to take us for a walk along Summit Road.

 

Since then the love for the hill has grown  tremendously with the numerous hiking trips up the hill done with family or friends. Each and every hike to me is like an adventure with a whole new world opening up to you if you keep your eyes, nose and ears peeled, especially for someone who loves plants and birds.

Of late, I haven't had the opportunity to go up Penang Hill ever since the pandemic, until today. Despite not hiking but joining the weekend crowd on the funicular railway, it was indeed an eye-opening trip for me to see how many things up there have changed since the pandemic.

 

The weather was good, and the rolling mist adds to the allure and charm of the hill station. What caught my eye was at the abandoned quarters on the old Waterfall Road. The back end of the dilapidated quarters have now become the playground for a group of dusky leaf monkeys (Trachypithecus obscurus). I guess when humans move out, nature takes back.

 

One of the dusky leaf monkeys playing at the back of the abandoned quarters along the old
Waterfall Road.

I then went to the clearing by the abandoned Convalescent bungalow to enjoy the 'mossy forest' feel of Penang Hill. That area and the adjacent area now occupied by the Habitat used to be my favourite hang-out area when I am up there, just to get some peace of mind.

 

 

For me, the hill has changed a lot since my childhood, but I guess everything keeps evolving and moving forward, and all we can do is reminisce the past and enjoy the present!

 

Dumbells anyone???

Bypath C - love the mist.

A little repair is needed :-)

All in a day's work...

Countdown to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2022 - 14 more days

Yes! It is that time of the year... as the Nine Emperor Gods Festival approaches, the countdown to the festival begins!

This year will see most places having the festival back to usual as in the pre-COVID days. For Ampang Nine Emperor Gods temple, this year we will see the return of the stalls, the invitation procession, the fire walking etc. just like in pre-COVID times, with the exception that the dormitories are not open to devotees.

For the countdown series, I will mostly post photos of the Ampang Nine Emperor Gods temple in the pre-festival and preparatory stages as they prepare for the festival this year. The images will be in a myriad of colours, tonality, with some dark and some bright, some dull and some vividly coloured; so as to depict the broad range of visual stimuli that hits you when you participate in the festival.

So let the Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2022 countdown begin... 14 more days to the 2022 Nine Emperor Gods Festival!

Bringing Iron Rod Puppets to Life - Kim Giak Low Choon Teochew Puppet Opera

In Penang, the Kim Giak Low Choon Teochew Puppet Troupe (金玉楼春潮州木偶剧团) needs no introduction here in their hometown as they are one of the groups that are actively promoting and keeping the tradition of Teochew iron-rod puppet opera alive. Whilst they have performed in numerous shows organised by various government agencies and NGOs in the promotion of local intangible cultural heritage, I still enjoy their performances more when it is performed in a more traditional setting viz. in temple celebrations.

Such shows that usually performed in conjunction with a deity's birthday are called 酬神戏 (chóu shén xì) in Chinese and literally means Rewarding the Gods performance. There is this feel of the 'realness' in the show when they perform on the temple opera stage, with all the temple stuff around and not in a 'sanitised' set up. Plus if you block the intended audience of the show (the gods or spirits) when watching or shooting them, they would not be asking you to move aside, right?

I managed to catch Kim Giak Low Choon Teochew Puppet Troupe recently in such a setting during the Goddess of Mercy birthday celebration at Yuan Ying Gong (Hor Kai Kong) temple in Pulau Tikus, Penang. As always, their performances is joy to watch and shoot. The lack of audience during the performance there also meant that it was easy to maneuver around the front of the stage to capture the puppets and puppeteers in action.

Thaipusam 2022 - Another year of the festival under the pandemic and the pandemonium of SOPs

Amidst the last minute announcement of new SOPs by the government for the festival, which threw confusion and chaos amongst devotees as to what is allowed for the festival, Thaipusam 2022 kick-started in Kuala Lumpur last night with the silver chariot carrying the image of Lord Murugan and his consorts leaving the Sri Maha Mariammam temple in town for Batu Caves at around 10pm.

Whilst the crowd was less at the temple compared to pre-Covid times, it was still a sizeable crowd as many thronged to witness the event personally after being unable to do so last year. With restricted stoppages and less devotees offering archanais along the way, the chariot reached its destination in the wee hours of the morning today on 17 January.

Thaipusam falls on the 18th of January, and due to the last minute announcement of the rules by the government, there will be no kavadi carrying allowed at temples in Malaysia this year. However milk pots are allowed and hence it is expected the festival will be a little toned-down as compared to before the pandemic.

Happy Thaipusam 2022 to all!

Happy Thai Pongal 2022

Pongal or Thai Pongal, is a Tamil festival that is celebrated in the month of Thai and usually falls on January 14 (January 15 on leap years). Despite being lesser known and is often overshadowed by Thaipusam that occurs several days later, nevertheless it is an important festival to the Tamils as it celebrates Uttarayan, or the movement of the sun shifting back north after the end of its southward journey into the Tropic of Capricorn, thus marking the end of winter. Now you will say, hey this sounds like the Winter Solstice in December that is celebrated in many cultures, but why is it in January and not in December?

 

The pot of milk, rice and jaggery that is being boiled overflowing and accompanied by shouts
of Pongalo Pongal during Thai Pongal festival.

Well you are right, it is the Tamil/Hindu equivalent of the Northern hemisphere Winter Solstice but the reason for the date discrepancy is because Tamil/Hindu calendar and astrology are based on sidereal precession instead of tropical precession like the Western and Chinese calendar/astrology. Due to the precession of the Earth on its axis, the date when the Sun enters Tropic of Capricorn is seen by us today to be happening in Dec (usually Dec 21) instead of January. In 26000 years time from the start of the Tamil/Hindu sidereal calendar, then Winter Solstice will coincide with Thai Pongal again in January as the Earth makes a complete cycle wobbling on its axis.

This festival is also celebrated in the northern parts of India as Makar Sankrati, in West Bengal as Poush Sankrati or Maghe Sankrati in Nepal; and as well as wherever the Indian diaspora can be found. In Malaysia, where the local Indian communities whom are mostly Tamils, celebrate Thai Pongal with great fervour despite it being not a public holiday.

The day before Pongal is called Bhogi Pandigal (Bhogi or Pogi in short), and it is a day to get rid of old stuff and set it on fire, symbolically getting rid of the old and starting anew. On the day of Pongal, Tamil families would first set up a tripod of three sugarcane sticks, and beneath it a new, colourful earthenware pot (pongapani) wrapped with a stalk of turmeric plant (leaves, stem and a bit of the root; some people wrap it when the cooking is almost done as to prevent it from being completely burnt), is used to boil rice with jaggery and milk, then topped with spices, nuts and dried fruits (eg. cardamom, cinnamon, cashews and raisins) and are allowed to boil over and the liquid bubble out of the pot.

Setting up the pot for cooking.

Adding rice to the mixture.

Pongalo pongal!

When that happens it is customary to shout Pongalo Pongal to usher in auspiciousness for the new year. Once the cooking is done, the resulting sweet rice dish (called sakkarai pongal - literally sweet pongal) is then offered as prasadam to the Sun God (Surya) and other deities first and later consumed by family members.

Happy Winter Solstice 2021

Today is the Winter Solstice and for Chinese people it is celebrated as as Dong Zhi (冬至), which when translated literally means Winter's Extreme as it marks the longest night of the year.

On this day, Southern Chinese families and their diaspora will usually get together and consume coloured glutinous rice balls which symbolizes reunion and a new beginning. The glutinous rice balls are also offered to ancestors and deities that are worshiped at home. On the other hand, Northern Chinese would typically consume dumplings instead as the festival food on this day.

So have a Happy Winter Solstice Festival!

Kuda Kepang - The Dance of Two Realms

Kuda kepang, a traditional Javanese dance, is also commonly performed by the Javanese diaspora in South East Asia. In Malaysia this traditional performance is kept alive in areas of Southern Johor, where a large number of people of Javanese descent resides.

Whilst this dance can be merely a performance, in its original form it often incorporates elements of trance which is said to be caused by invited spirit possession. However with the rise of Islamization in the region, the trance portion is often left out as it is deemed un-Islamic. Hence to witness a kuda kepang performance incorporating the trance element here in Malaysia is very much a novelty and a treat.

We were lucky in KL that last night, Pusaka in collaboration with Seni Lab and 33.3studio brought Kumpulan Kuda Kepang Parit Raja Johor to Black Box, Publika in an exciting and eclectic traditional kuda kepang performance with light show and music called Cahaya 004 - Kitab Basah, and yes it was with trance as well.

The moment the dancers goes into trance, their movements seemed to take on an unearthly vibe and exudes that sublime other realm feel to the performance. It is as if something from the other side touched the entire performance and everyone in it, and for that short time, the two realms, physical and the unseen, were connected through the dancers and their movements.

It was an enthralling and a different experience that cannot be adequately described in words or by photos, and is definitely a performance that everyone should at least experience once in their lifetime for themselves.

Of Lights and Water... the Loy Krathong Festival

The Loy Krathong festival, which falls on Friday this year (19 November 2021) is one of the most picturesque festivals that is celebrated in Thailand and also by the larger Thai communities in other countries including those in certain areas of Malaysia.

This festival has its roots as a Brahminical festival to honour the Goddess Ganga (Phra Mae Khongkha - พระแม่คงคา), and is celebrated on the full moon night of the twelfth month of the Thai calendar, which usually falls within the month of November in the Gregorian calendar.

The festival also coincide with the Lanna (Northern Thailand) festival of Yi Peng, where they release sky lanterns (basically identical to the Chinese Kung Ming lantern), and is now celebrated as one amalgamated festival in Northern Thailand.

Whilst Thailand is celebrating the festival on a big scale as they have started to reopen to tourist post Covid-19 pandemic, the same can't be said for Malaysia; where it would not be publicly celebrated by the Thai communities in Klang Valley and in Penang this year due to concerns of the pandemic.

So in this post are a few pictures from the festival in Penang (at Gurney Drive) taken in 2014, and hoping that the festival will make a comeback here in Malaysia next year. Happy Loy Krathong!

Flower Power... Krathong with lovely flowers

Lighting up the krathongs...

Say a little prayer for you...

Let it go, let it go...

The North Star Deity (北斗星君) arrives at Sekinchan Nine Emperor Gods Temple

As part of the series of ceremonies and divine invitations that occur during the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, the Nan Tian Gong Nine Emperor Gods temple of Sekinchan (适耕庄南天宫九皇大帝) invited the North Star deity (北斗星君) yesterday on the 5th day of the festival.

Whilst the South Star deity (南斗星君) is believed to be in charge of matters regarding your well-being and living quality in this life, the North Star deity is in charge of the death (ie. lifespan) of a person, and therefore prayers are often offered to the North Star deity to prolong one's lifespan.

 

The invitation ceremony of the North Star deity carried out by Sekinchan Nine Emperor Gods temple yesterday was somewhat similar to the South Star deity invitation ceremony on the 2nd day of the festival (click to read in new tab), with the exception that it was more festive this time around, having a pair of lions performing the lion dance and escorted the entourage for the invite, plus we headed north of the temple this time to a spot located somewhere in the agricultural fields for the invitation. Also, as the site was quite close by, the temple entourage walked to the site which took us about 10 mins to get there.

The schedule of invitation ceremonies at Sekinchan are as follows:

• 5th Oct 2021 (eve of festival) 10.15pm - Invitation of the Nine Emperor Gods
• 7th Oct 2021 (2nd day) 10.15pm - Invitation of the South Star Deity
• 10th Oct 2021 (5th day) 10.15pm - Invitation of the North Star Deity
• 12th Oct 2021 (7th day) 8.45pm - Invitation of Jade Emperor
• 13th Oct 2021 (8th day) 10.15pm - Invitation of Dou Mu

 

Ampang Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2021... A Celebration Behind Closed Doors

Today is the second day of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, and as expected, it was quiet but still smoky at Ampang Nine Emperor Gods temple. Other than the numerous dragon joss-sticks burning away inside the temple grounds, it actually feels more like a non-celebration, being rather calm and without the usual endless stream of devotees coming and going throughout the day.

• Previous post - A Low Key Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2021 for Ampang

Happy Mid-Autumn Festival 2021

It is again the Mid-Autumn Festival or better known as the Mooncake Festival. The mooncake shown here is a type of mooncake known as 公仔饼 (doll biscuit) or 猪笼饼 (pig basket biscuit). Traditionally, this biscuit is placed unwrapped in miniature bamboo and later plastic baskets that resembles the cages that pigs were transported in (hence piggy biscuit). Nowadays as to comply with food hygiene requirements, they are individually wrapped in plastic wrapper before being stuffed into the plastic cage.

 

 

This type of mooncake biscuit is basically made with the dough for the skin of the traditional (Cantonese style) mooncakes, and is a good way to utilise all the excess dough instead of letting them go to waste. In the past, they are moulded into various shapes including a simple, elongated oval shape, as long as they can fit into the 'cage'. Nowadays they are almost always moulded to look like a cute miniature pig.

Traditionally, they are solid, with no filling whatsoever as the purpose of this mooncake was to make use of the excess dough; plus it also doubles up as a cheap gift for customers who bought a lot of expensive mooncakes. Nowadays, mooncake makers do make them with simple filling like lotus paste or red bean paste.

Even though it isn't as popular as other types of mooncakes, nevertheless the sight of these piggy biscuit mooncakes always reminded me of the way  the Mooncake Festival was celebrated when I was young.

 

Another year of quiet Hungry Ghost Festival

As the Hungry Ghost Festival this year comes to a close, it has been another year of low key celebrations due to the Covid-19 pandemic.

 

No large makeshift altars were allowed here this year. Instead, people are only allowed to do prayers in temples and also private offerings outside their homes.

 

And as we reminisce upon the festive celebrations of previous years, we hope that perhaps next year we will start to see some of these traditional festivities return to normal.

Comtemplation in the Market...

A fresh seafood seller seemed to be deep in thought whilst waiting for customers to come by at Psar Chas in Siem Reap, Cambodia. This photo was taken in 2015... and with the current pandemic, I too sometimes wonder if we can ever be the same again like in pre-Covid times.

Interestingly, the word for market in Khmer is Psar... which is probably a derivative from Champa or the Malay word Pasar, which came from the Persian word Bazar. The influence of East - West trade on the word usage for market is indeed interesting.

Memories of Jogja Istimewa -The Endog Abang Lady

A rather unique festival celebrated in Jogjakarta, Central Java is the Sekaten festival that usually last for a week, commemorating the birthday of Prophet Muhammad. One of the features of this festival is the abundance of ladies selling red eggs on skewers decorated with bits of paper known as Endog Abang (in Javanese endog is egg and abang is red - literally red egg).

The Endog Abang seller...

 

This photo of the lady selling Endog Abang was taken just outside one of the entrance to the Jogjakarta Palace during the 2015 Sekaten celebration. Whenever she sells a few Endog Abang, she will then proceed to make a few more from her supplies of red eggs stored in the woven basket in front of her.

Happy Hokkien New Year - Jade Emperor's Birthday

The Jade Emperor's Birthday falls on the 9th day of the Lunar New Year and for the Hokkien community it is regarded as their New Year. This year it falls on the 20th of February 2021 and in places where there are a large number of Hokkiens eg. Penang, this is usually a bigger and grander celebration than the first day of the Lunar New Year!

 

Usually families will prepare an altar for worshiping the Jade Emperor on the night of the eve of the festival (night of the 8th day of Lunar New Year) and when midnight comes, the prayers and festivities will commence, together with setting off fireworks and firecrackers to usher in their new year.

Devotees praying to the Jade Emperor inside the main
shrine of the Jade Emperor Temple in Air Itam, Penang.

For those that have neither the space nor the convenience to do the prayers at their place of residence, they would usually go to temples or to communal altars set up by the local community to worship the Jade Emperor together. In Penang, the Chew Jetty is one of those famous places where the communal worship of Jade Emperor on his birthday is practiced.

Alas, due to the Covid-19 pandemic, public celebrations have been cancelled this year and people can only do small scale prayers at home. Hence it was a pretty muted affair this year. Hopefully next year the festival will be back to being celebrated on a grand scale.

Happy Hokkien New Year!!

Wishing All A Healthy and Happy Chinese New Year 2021

Wishing all my readers a Happy Chinese New Year 2021. This year the lunar new year falls on 12th Feb 2021 and today being the eve of the Lunar New Year (除夕 - chú xī), it is customary for Chinese families to hold thanksgiving prayers today for their ancestors, and then followed by a family reunion dinner later in the evening before ushering in the new Lunar Year in a few hours time.

Unfortunately for us in Malaysia, this year's Chinese New Year celebration atmosphere is rather sombre as we are not allowed to travel across state or district and family reunion dinners are only allowed for family members within a 10km travel distance.

新年快乐, 身体健康, 万事如意!

In this difficult time of the Covid-19 pandemic, I would like wish everyone a good year ahead, stay safe and healthy always! Gong Xi Fa Cai!

Thaipusam 2021... Looking Back on Past Celebrations

A blessed Thaipusam to all, and even though we cannot personally attend the festival in Malaysia this year due to Covid-19 lock-down, we can always look back at happy memories of Thaipusam celebrations in the past and hopefully next year we all can join in the festivities once more.

Bathing of the Vel at Sg, Batu river during Thaipusam... (Thirthochava Ceremony)

Eight More Days to Thaipusam 2021... A Different Thaipusam due to Covid-19

Thaipusam is coming up in 8 more days, and yes this year it will be very different in Malaysia due to lock-downs brought about by Covid-19. Missing from this year's celebration would be the chariot procession, kavadis and huge crowds at Batu Caves, Penang and Ipoh as we are under lock-down that will most likely be extended beyond the festival date.

A couple carried their child up Batu Caves as a sign of gratitude for Lord Muruga's blessing,
one day before the second Covid-19 lockdown in Selangor.

Even so, some devotees managed to fulfill their vows of carrying paal kudam (pot of milk) or their baby as a sign of gratitude before the lockdown was imposed. Hopefully this will be the only year that the festival's age old traditions were broken, and we can return to nomalcy next year.

 

Vetrivel Muruganukku Arogara!

UPDATE: MKN has announced that all Thaipusam activities are NOT ALLOWED in temples within Movement Control Order (MCO) and Conditional MCO  (CMCO) states in Malaysia.

 

UPDATE 2: The Thaipusam chariot procession of Batu Caves, Penang and Ipoh has been granted permission to be held but under tight security with no devotees allowed.

Happy Thai Pongal 2021

Colourful earthenware pot for sale for the coming Pongal festival.

 

If you had noticed stalls selling sugarcane stalks complete with leaves, colourful earthenware pots, flowers and coconut leaf garlands recently in past few days is because the Thai Pongal or Pongal festival is coming up tomorrow on 14th January 2021. This festival marks the beginning of the Thai month in the Tamil calendar.

 

The festival is known as Makar Sankranti and is one of the few Indian festivals based on solar calendar terms as hence will always fall within a day or two from 14 January and marks the transition of the Sun into Capricorn.

As the majority of Indians in Malaysia are from Southern India, the festival is celebrated as Pongal here, and the name actually refers to the rice milk porridge cooked on that day in earthen pots and allowed to overflow upon boiling (a sign of abundance) and is regarded as thanksgiving. The porridge is then offered to the gods and then to family members.

 

Sugarcanes for sale for Pongal

Specifically for this festival, the Sakkarai Pongal (short grained rice cooked in jaggery and milk and and then garnished with ghee, cashew nuts and raisins) is cooked in the morning of the festival. Three sugarcane stalks are usually tied in a tripod fashion and stood over the pot used to cook the Sakkarai Pongal, hence you see the sale of sugarcane stalks by the stalls.

 

Happy Thai Pongal 2021 from Malaysia!