Showing posts with label street. Show all posts
Showing posts with label street. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 07, 2020

Fire and Purification - The Nine Emperor Gods Festival


Just 10 more days to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020 - so here's a take on what happened during the festival in 2019.
Crossing the Fire Gates (过火门) at Jinjang Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019

Fire walking, which is associated with purification and the renewal of cosmic energy, is a common practice at Nine Emperor Gods Festival as a rite that allows devotees to be blessed and energized with the power of the divine Heaven. Seen here is a form of fire walking, called Crossing the Fire Gates (过火门), that was carried out at Jinjang Nine Emperor Gods Festival in 2019.

Next post in this countdown to Nine Emperor Gods 2020 series:

Previous post in this countdown series to Nine Emperor Gods 2020 series:

Sunday, October 04, 2020

Nine Emperor Gods Festival: Bizarre Body Piercings When the Spirits Descend...


Counting down to Nine Emperor Gods Festival which is only 13 days away (or 12 days to the eve of the festival), let us talk about one of the more intriguing visual aspects of this celebration.

Besides the yellow flags and vegetarian stalls, one of the many iconic images associated with the upcoming Nine Emperor Gods Festival you see on the internet are those of bizarre and extreme body piercings done by Thai spirit mediums (Mah Songs). Not only are the piercings large, the items used leaves little to the imagination and are often unreligious but consist of mundane household objects... bicycle, step-ladders, stand-fan, blades, swords, etc.

Thai spirit medium with bizarre piercing of small bicycle
A spirit medium with a big rod through his cheek connected to a small push bike during the
2019 Kuala Pilah Nine Emperor Gods Festival procession

Whilst we seldom see such bizarre practices here in Malaysia, there are a few local mediums that do it, and there are also temples whom 'employ' mediums from Southern Thailand for this festival as a means to attract devotees and visitors to flock to their temple to witness this spectacle, as in the case of Kuala Pilah Nine Emperor Gods Temple.

Spirit medium with talismans hanging from metal rod pierced through cheek.
Medium with lucky charms hanging from his cheek piercing. whilst the rod may look short and
unimposing for now, they will connect huge flages to both ends of the rod for the procession
through the town later on.

So why do these mediums carry out such bizarre piercings? Well, some believe that by inflicting pain or mutilating themselves, the gods that possesses the spirit medium are transferring bad luck and averting misfortune from the devotees onto themselves.

Spirit medium getting pierced for Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019
Piercing the cheek of a medium in trance....

Also the blood that flows from self-inflicted wounds are believed to be 'divine' blood as it flows from a body that carries the divine spirit, and thus is used to make 'blood talismans' i.e. talisman with blood from self-mutilations smeared onto them. That is why you see in the pictures here the mediums have talismans and lucky objects hanging from their piercings as to empower them with this 'divine' power.

Thai spirit medium with bizarre piercing of small bicycle
Having a metal bar pierced through your cheek isn't a typical
job for the faint-heated or the uninitiated.

Next post in this countdown to Nine Emperor Gods 2020 series:

Previous post in this countdown to Nine Emperor Gods 2020 series:

Tuesday, September 29, 2020

Will the Show Still Go On after Covid-19?? - Countdown to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020


Amongst all of the culture and performing arts groups affected by Covid-19 pandemic in Malaysia, one group that stands out as receiving the brunt end of the deal are they opera troupes that perform for temple celebrations and festivals. This year has seen all of their appointments being canceled, including those for Nine Emperor Gods Festival that is drawing near. The question is will they survive the pandemic and still be there when it all ends? Or will the final curtain fall on them...

Looking back at these pictures of the ritual performance for the invitation ceremony of Jinjang Nine Emperor Gods Festival in 2019 by the Chinese opera troupe there brings back good memories; and our prayers goes out to them that may we see them again in 2021...

Opera performance for Nine Emperor Gods invitation ceremony
Nine Emperor Gods invitation ritual with opera show
Nine Emperor Gods invitation performance by opera troupe in Jinjang

Next post in this countdown series:

Previous post in this countdown to Nine Emperor Gods 2020 series:

Friday, September 25, 2020

Nine Emperor Gods Festival - All About The What, Who, Why, When and Where of this Festival


What is the Nine Emperor Gods Festival?


The Nine Emperor Gods Festival (九皇爷诞) is a popular festival celebrated in South East Asia, particularly in areas that are the focal points of the Southern Chinese diaspora, like Phuket in Southern Thailand, Penang and Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia, Singapore and certain areas of Indonesia.

This festival is sometimes known as Vegetarian Festival or Tesagan Gin Je in Thailand. Interestingly, this festival does not exist in Mainland China or Taiwan, and is distinctive to the Chinese diaspora outside China. Unique to this festival is the 9 day duration (10 days if you include activities on the eve of the festival), and devotees that wear white and use white or yellow candles and joss-sticks to pray instead of the usual red ones.

A lantern with nine lamps (高燈 or 九曲燈 - pic below) is raised on the eve of the festival to inform the gods that the celebration is happening at the location and an invitation ceremony, that is usually very festive, to invite the Nine Emperor Gods from a body of water usually happens later that day.

Nine lamp lantern (高燈/九曲燈) raised during Nine Emperor Gods Festival

At the end of the festival, the Nine Emperor Gods are sent off back to the body of water that they were invited from, usually with another procession consisting of priest, mediums and devotees.

Ampang Nine Emperor Gods Festival prayer


Who are the Nine Emperor Gods (九皇爺 / 九皇大帝)?

The exact origin of the Nine Emperor Gods (九皇大帝) worshiped is unclear, and there are many versions of the origin of this worship. The practice seems to be an amalgamated practice of Taoist Li Dou (Big Dipper Prayer) mixed in with folk spirit worship.

The Nine Emperor Gods are sometimes said to be the nine sons of Dou Mu (斗母), the Mother Goddess of the Taoist pantheon and hence a lot of Nine Emperor Gods temples are called Dou Mu Gong (斗母宮) - literally the Mother of Dipper Star Palace. There is also the version that associates the Nine Emperor Gods with nine Ming Dynasty heroes who fought to overthrow the Qing Dynasty that were beheaded.


In some places like Ampang, there is another version linking the Nine Emperor Gods as a product of the secret society (Hong Secret Society - 洪門會) trying to hide their activities from the law. Regardless of which story you believe in, the worship of Nine Emperor Gods are very popular with the local devotees and their efficacy in answering prayers attested to.


Why do people worship these Nine Emperor Gods?

Whilst there are many (muddled) versions of how this festival started, it all points down to being able to seek help from a higher source to help them with their lives. The festival is a chance for them to pray for a better future, or to purify themselves by participating in rituals associated with this festival such as bridge crossing and fire-walking. Also one can engage Taoist priest to conduct luck opening or luck increasing ceremonies during this festival which is said to be very efficacious.


When does this festival happen?

This festival is celebrated from the 1st day to the 9th day of the 9th month of the Chinese lunisolar calendar. The dates usually fall around late Sept to mid Oct in the Gregorian calendar. Bear in mind that the festival actually starts on the eve of the celebration with the nine lamp lantern pole raising.
  • In 2020 - 17th till the 25th of October.
  • In 2021 - 4th till the 13th of October.
  • In 2022 - 24th of September till the 3rd of October.


Where can I read up more about this festival?


What is this 'Zhai' (斋) banner that I see on food stalls all about?


During this festival, one will surely not miss the yellow coloured banner with the character 斋 (zhai), usually in red. On the surface, this 'zhai' seems to represent the food ie vegetarianism that is associated with this festival, but in actual fact the Chinese character means abstinence or fast. So what do the devotees supposedly fast from?
  1. Meat/animal products including dairy and eggs ( this includes wearing leather garments/items)
  2. Five pungent root vegetables (onion, garlic, leek, garlic chives, spring onion) - although some only abstain from garlic.
  3. Alcohol (allowed in some places, especially where beer companies sponsor the temple banners).
  4. Sexual contact.
  5. Negative actions, feelings and thoughts.
Hence the food that is sold for this festival is more akin to vegan food (minus the pungent vegetables) than just being vegetarian. Also the cooking utensils and eating cutlery must also be clean and have not come in contact with animal/meat products.

In reality, this festival is not just about the food being 'pure', but  the other aspects of the abstinence should be practiced in order to achieve the purification and blessings associated with the festival.


Who are the half naked guys in costumes running around?

Those are the spirit medium that are part and parcel of this celebration. During the invitation ceremony, they also serve to usher the spirit of the nine emperor gods to descend (besides the priest's incantations), and to conduct certain rituals for the benefit of the devotees which includes empowering talismans, fire-walking etc.

Spirit medium running across fire pit in Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019


Why do these mediums self-immolate and take on bizarre body piercings?

One is to purify the space and also to protect the devotees. The blood shed from this immolation is a form of self-sacrifice, and since they are supposedly possessed by deities when doing so, the blood has protective power that can be used to clean a space, or empower talismans.

The bizarre and sometimes brutal piercing also serves to prove to devotees that they are indeed possessed by gods, as they appear to feel no pain, and the wound heal quickly once the piercings are removed.

Nine Emperor Gods Festival Jinjang 2015 - pierced spirit medium


When can you see these spirit mediums in action?

The deities are usually called upon to possess the mediums during rituals associated with the festival such as the lantern pole raising ceremony, the invitation ceremony, on certain days where they feed the heavenly armies that guards the temples, during processions to bless the area and devotees, and during rituals like bridge crossing or fire-walking.


Where does this festival happen?

Like they say, it is all about location, location, and location - basically wherever there are Nine Emperor Gods temple.

Phuket does the spirit mediums (as well as the festival) to the utmost intensity and fervor that is unmatched in other places. However if you are squeamish about brutal piercings, huge crowds and firecrackers going off at every corner, then Malaysia and Singapore are more suitable for you as a start to look into the festival.

Just look out for huge temple flags/banners or yellow lanterns set out along the roads leading to the temple, usually emblazoned with the Chinese words 九皇大帝 (Nine Emperor Gods) and you will be able to find them.

Yellow lanterns from Jinjang Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2018


Next post in my countdown to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020 series: Looking Back at Familiar Faces in Sacred Spaces - Countdown to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020

Take note that the festival this year (2020) will either be scaled down or cancelled altogether in many places due to the Covid-19 pandemic (click to read post - So Near Yet So Far - A Different Nine Emperor Gods Festival for 2020.)

Please check with the respective temples if they are holding the festival and if one can attend the various ceremonies that they carry out.

Monday, September 21, 2020

Nine Emperor Gods (九皇大帝) Festival 2020 - What to Expect This Year??

The Nine Emperor Gods Festival for 2020 falls on 16 Oct 2020 (eve) till 25 Oct 2020 (ninth day). So what can we expect of this year's celebration? How different would it be from previous years' celebration? Already many Nine Emperor Gods temples in Malaysia are announcing that they will scale down and only allow prayers for this festival, sans all the procession, trances, stalls and festivities associated with this festival.

Collection of 九皇大帝 talimans from Ampang Nine Emperor Gods Temple
 
From a devotee's point of view, many are feeling a little lost as some may have vowed to stay in the temple for nine days due to prayers being answered in the previous year, of which now they cannot fulfil this year due to the Covid-19 pandemic.

Some having 'borrowed' money from the temple (ie borrowed luck or wealth from the gods) are asking will they still be able to come and repay the 'debt' this year. Will there be vegetarian food stalls open for those who usually get their vegetarian meals outside?

Whilst we are keeping our spirits high, there are still more questions than answers for this year's celebration.... but hopefully all will be better the next year.

Saturday, September 19, 2020

Let's Start With a Trip Down Memory Lane - Countdown to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020

The Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020 is less than a month away, (27 days away to be exact) ... So let's start the countdown to this year's Nine Emperor Gods Festival by looking back at last year's pics in anticipation that this year's festival will be starkly different due to the Covid-19 pandemic.

Piercing at Si Thian Kong (西天宫 九皇爷) Nine Emperor Gods festival 2019
Cucuk... (Piercing). Thai mediums at Kuala Pilah Nine Emperor Gods Temple (Si Thian Kong)
undergo piercing for the festival parade in 2019.


See also my previous post - So Near Yet So Far - A Different Nine Emperor Gods Festival for 2020 for a short clip of Jinjang Nine Emperor Gods Festival in 2019.

Wednesday, September 16, 2020

Till We Meet Again - The End of the Hungry Ghost Month

As the Hungry Ghost Month for 2020 draws to a close, we bid farewell to the roadside offerings of food and joss paper, and of the taboos of the month... It was indeed a very different celebration this year under the 'New Normal', and I have only managed to see one large Phor Thor at Sunway Mentari (and even that was scaled down) when in previous years, the problem was more of trying to politely decline friends' invitation to see and shoot the Phor Thor in their area.
 
Of course the best part of a Phor Thor or large Hungry Ghost celebration, besides the prayers, food offerings and trances is the burning of the King of Hades (Da Shi Yeh) to send him and his officials off, together with all the joss paper and spirit tablets of the departed at the end of the celebration. Picture below is the Da Shi Yeh from Sunway Mentari Phor Thor catching fire as they set him alight on the last night of their celebration.

Burning of Da Shi Yeh effigy at the end of hungry ghost celebration
 
So hopefully next year thing will be back to normal, and we shall be able to attend more large Hungry Ghost Phor Thor celebrations... 

Tuesday, September 15, 2020

The Final Prayer - Hungry Ghost Festival 2020

These are the scenes of the final prayer session for the Sunway Mentari Hungry Ghost Festival, before sending the King of Hades (Da Shi Yeh) and his retinue off in a big bonfire. Whenever a large Phor Thor (Hungry Ghost) celebration is conducted ie with the King of Hades, his retinue and the various paper effigies, this prayer is always done at the end of the celebration and depending on the priest and how elaborate the procedure is, can take up to two or three hours before it is completed and the paper effigies and joss paper can then be dispatched in a big bonfire.

Da Shi Yeh altar at Sunway Mentari Hungry Ghost 2020
It is all about food... and it's finger licking good too...

Joss money
Money makes the world go round - Joss money and 'daily necessities' for the hungry ghost.

Taoist priest during hungry ghost month prayer
It is in the hands - The priest performing ritual to feed the hungry ghost...

Hungry ghost prayer
Tossing joss paper money for the spirits ...

Moving King of Hades for the send off
Moving the Da Shi Yeh (King of Hades) effigy and his retinue to be burnt at the end of
the ceremony.

The focus of this final prayers before the the send-off is all about feeding the wandering spirits, ensuring they have food, joss money and whatever they need in their realm, and then asking all of them to take leave, including the King of Hades and his retinue, plus all of the ancestor spirits that has benefited from this celebration.

Saturday, September 05, 2020

Women of Nepal

The streets of Kathmandu and more so in the surrounding suburbs can be very rewarding to the photographer, especially if you love catching street and environmental portraits. As you walk along the area, you will notice quite a few locals work at their doorstep, around the village square or the water source for the town. The women folk featured in this album were weaving carpet or spinning yarn at their doorstep, or in grandma's case, she was taking a break from a hard day's work. Their faces show it all; the hardship, the toil and joys of their life are all etched in their faces...

Saturday, August 22, 2020

Hungry Tonight??? - Hungry Ghost Festival under the New Normal

Hungry Ghost Festival 2020 is here... albeit more toned down due to COVID-19 pandemic
restrictions.

Hungry Ghost Festival has started on 19th August 2020... but this year you will probably notice that there are less almost no large scale festivities (Phor Thor Celebration) locally due to the coronavirus pandemic restrictions. The so called 'new normal' in which social distancing rules applies and no big gatherings being allowed has affected the traditional Phor Thor celebration... Gone are the stage shows (getai), Chinese opera shows and large tent up areas for this celebration.
 
However, prayers offered by the roadside for wandering hungry ghosts seems to be no less than the previous year. So beware, when you are out at night and walking alone.... you might just not be alone on the streets, something might be out there, watching you go by..... (see this post about the taboos during Hungry Ghost festival)



Friday, January 03, 2020

Teamwork - Penang Hot Air Balloon Fiesta 2020

Inflation of MyDeerling, a special shape balloon during Penang Hot Air Balloon Fiesta 2020


Tuesday, October 08, 2019

Sending the Nine Emperor Gods Home - The End of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival at Ampang

As all good things must come to an end, so after nine frantic and energetic days of  trances, vegetarian meals, rituals and prayers the Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019 comes to an end. Here at Ampang Nine Emperor Gods Temple, the Nine Emperor Gods was sent off at 3.30am in the wee hours of the morning on the tenth day of the festival. Whilst the crowd wasn't as large as the invitation ceremony (probably due to the ungodly hour), the atmosphere was still very much charged with the religious fervour of the festival.

Looking down at the entourage sending the Nine Emperor Gods off at Ampang
So long, farewell... devotees from Ampang Nine Emperor Gods Temple sending the Nine
Emperor Gods off at the end of the festival.

Exhausted and drained, it was a rather solemn and quiet affair as devotees escort the Nine Emperor Gods on the journey back to the river, and with hope and certainty that next year we will meet again...

5 bushel text, tea and yellow ribbon used in Nine Emperor Gods prayer

Dates for Nine Emperor Gods Festival in 2020:

  • Eve of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival - 16th October 2020
  • 1st Day of Nine Emperor Gods Festival - 17th October 2020
  • 9th Day of Nine Emperor Gods Festival - 25th October 2020


Saturday, October 05, 2019

Kuala Pilah Nine Emperor Gods Procession 2019 - Walking in the Rain

And we were walking in the rain... but the light drizzle eventually stopped as the procession began. The rain didn't dampen the spirits of the participants and also helped to make the night a cool and pleasant walk for the Nine Emperor Gods procession that meandered through the old parts of Kuala Pilah town.

Walking (or rather waiting...) in the rain... Participants of Kuala Pilah Nine Emperor Gods
Festival waiting for the signal to begin their annual procession.


Crossing the Fire Pit - Kuala Pilah Nine Emperor Gods Temple

Yesterday, on the 6th day of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, Cheryl, Kirk and I decided to head down south to Kuala Pilah Nine Emperor Gods Temple (Si Thian Kong -  西天宫) as we found out that the Thai mediums which the temple had invited were going to do their fire crossing that night.

Of course we left for the temple early (3pm) from KL in anticipation that there will be quite some activity late in the evening before the actual fire-crossing ceremony, which usually happens at night.

One for the show...performing for the Nine Emperor Gods.
One for the show...performing for the Nine Emperor Gods.

We managed to catch the opera troupe perform a ritual performance for the Nine Emperor Gods in the evening, before the Thai mediums went into trance and was performing many self-mutilation acts like tongue cutting and hitting their backs or stomach with knives and axes to draw blood to empower talisman for the devotees.

Cutting... Drawing blood for talisman.
Cutting... Drawing blood for talisman.

I believe I can fly!
I Believe I Can Fly!

Spray... When things get too hot to handle!
Spray... When things get too hot to handle!

Run, run across the fire pit!
Run, run across the fire pit.

I will carry you through...
I will carry you through...

But the best part was the fire-crossing ceremony, as this type of fire pit made by burning wood into embers that is typical of Thai mediums is usually very much hotter than the ones done with compressed charcoal bed typical of Chinese temples in Malaysia.

Having crossed this type of fire pit before in Jinjang, I know that speed is essential and that mediums and people crossing it will end up running or literally flying through the hot embers.

At the end of the day, the local folks and Sing Sua Sifu kept us company with food and drinks until the wee hours of the next day, and it was truly an exhausting but fun trip.

It is a wrap...
It is a wrap...

Saturday, September 28, 2019

It has begun... the Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019

The sudden heavy downpour this evening at Ampang, which threatened to make this year's Nine Emperor Gods invitation ceremony a repeat of last year's rain drenched event, did not deter the participating devotees at all. Furthermore many had learnt a lesson from last year's event and thus came prepared with raincoats, ponchos and umbrellas.


Fortunately for them, the sky quickly cleared and by the time the procession was making its way back to the temple through the main road of Ampang old town, it was a clear and breezy evening. With the start of this festival, the usually quiet Ampang New Village is transformed into a hive of activity as devotees and casual visitors from near and far all pour in to see or participate in this festival.




Friday, September 27, 2019

Same same but Different - the Nine Emperor Gods Festival

If you ask me which temple is better to see or shoot Nine Emperor Gods Festival, my reply would be... they are all 'same same but different'. And if you ask me if what has changed over the years that I have followed this festival, my answer would still be... 'same same but different'.

In my opinion, this popular South-east Asian phrase 'Same same but different' very aptly describes this festival.... and here is why I feel it is so:

  • Same same rites and rituals but there are (minor) differences...
  • Same same schedule of event every year, with minor tweaks and additions or omissions...
  • Same same people participate every year, except they are one year older...
  • Same same deity but the invitation timing is different...
  • Same same concept of invitation (from a body of water) but locations are different (river, sea, etc)
  • Same same God that they pray to but rules of who can participate in the festival and/or fire walking is different from temple to temple
  • Same same kind of vegetarian food, but prices are way way different.
  • Same same shots taken... but many different stories can be told from the shots of the festival...

So my advice is... go and enjoy this 'Same same but different' festival and don't fret it if you miss something this year... there is always next year... as it will be... 'Same same but different'



So my countdown to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019 posts comes to a close today with this post as tomorrow (28th Sept 2019) will be the eve of this festival... Remember that some temples will carry out the invitation ceremony tomorrow in the evening whilst some do it much closer to midnight... same same but different ya!


Thursday, September 26, 2019

Almost time for.... Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019


Just a few more days to the start of Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019. So here is a survival checklist to help you gauge if you are ready for the festival:
  1. White clothes, pants and head cover.
  2. Vegetarian foodstuff - think of tofu and mock meat, fermented bean paste to seaweed
  3. Camera and accessories
  4. White candles, red tortoise buns and yellow talismans
  5. Stamina
  6. and even more stamina to last the nine days

For those who are looking for Ampang Nine Emperor Gods 2019 schedule of events, please visit Cheryl's post for the schedule of events and more info (link below):

Wednesday, September 25, 2019

Counting down to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019

4 more days to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019....well, 3 more days to the eve of the festival. Many who participate in this festival would most likely be starting their bland vegetarian diet today so as to be 'clean' during the invitation on the eve of the festival. Many temples that celebrate this festival would also already be bustling with the preparations for this annual festival.


Tuesday, September 24, 2019

Let the spirits descend - the Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019


The Nine Emperor Gods festival, which is starting is 5 days time, is associated with spirit mediums and trances of various deities including those of the Nine Emperor Gods. With these trances, acts of self mortification such as blood letting and body piercing are signs that the divine has taken over the body of the medium and that he or she does not feel any pain. Furthermore the blood letting is also both a sacrifice and purification of the space and surroundings, and thus is often carried out with great spiritual fervor. So let the spirits descend....


When (does it start): 29th Sept 2019 to 7th October 2019 (the eve falls on 28th Sept)

Where (can I see this festival): Nine Emperor Gods temples in South East Asia

What (to do): Eat vegetarian, see mediums perform rituals, watch parades, fire walking etc.

For those who are looking for the schedule of events at Ampang Nine Emperor Gods Festival, surf over to Cheryl's post in her site - Haze Move over! Dates for the 2019 Festival (Ampang Style) for the schedule and lots more info regarding the festival.