Happy Thai Pongal 2021

Colourful earthenware pot for sale for the coming Pongal festival.

 

If you had noticed stalls selling sugarcane stalks complete with leaves, colourful earthenware pots, flowers and coconut leaf garlands recently in past few days is because the Thai Pongal or Pongal festival is coming up tomorrow on 14th January 2021. This festival marks the beginning of the Thai month in the Tamil calendar.

 

The festival is known as Makar Sankranti and is one of the few Indian festivals based on solar calendar terms as hence will always fall within a day or two from 14 January and marks the transition of the Sun into Capricorn.

As the majority of Indians in Malaysia are from Southern India, the festival is celebrated as Pongal here, and the name actually refers to the rice milk porridge cooked on that day in earthen pots and allowed to overflow upon boiling (a sign of abundance) and is regarded as thanksgiving. The porridge is then offered to the gods and then to family members.

 

Sugarcanes for sale for Pongal

Specifically for this festival, the Sakkarai Pongal (short grained rice cooked in jaggery and milk and and then garnished with ghee, cashew nuts and raisins) is cooked in the morning of the festival. Three sugarcane stalks are usually tied in a tripod fashion and stood over the pot used to cook the Sakkarai Pongal, hence you see the sale of sugarcane stalks by the stalls.

 

Happy Thai Pongal 2021 from Malaysia!

Can Malaysia Survive Another Covid-19 Lockdown?

On Wed 13th January 2021, Malaysia will enter into yet another lock-down as the escalating case numbers of Covid-19 cases are getting out of control. This is in spite of the fact that in the middle of last year (2020), we were one of those countries praised for the excellent handling of the Covid-19 situation; all it took was a by-election and everything has gone south ever since.

Yet Movement Control Order 2.0 may just be the last straw that broke the camel's back, as the country's economy which hadn't recovered since the first lock-down despite the relaxation of the lock-down several months later might not be able to take the brunt of another lock-down. The signs are obvious, especially small businesses that had shuttered their doors due to the pandemic.

An empty Petaling Street on a Sunday... Wonder how many customers did the old uncle
selling Ban Chang kueh (peanut pancake) gets each day?

If you take a walk in Kuala Lumpur's inner city areas like Petaling Street, you can definitely see the effects of the previous lock-down on small businesses. No longer bustling with people and with only a few stalls still open for business, Chinatown is now a ghost of its former self and actually looks more like a ghost town! Even on weekends, you could stand in the middle of Petaling Street, stretch your arms out and spin around without hitting anyone. The photo above was taken on a Sunday, just days before the second lock-down, and you can see how empty Petaling Street is.

Perhaps it is wishful thinking, but I truly hope that after this Covid-19 pandemic is over, the old uncle selling the peanut pancake will still be there.... hopefully!

So Long... Farewell Penang Ferry Service

As the year draw to a close, we bid farewell to 2020 and also the historical Penang Ferry Service, which will make its last trip today, ferrying both vehicles and passengers to and from Penang to Butterworth.

The ferry service, which started off as a passenger-only service by Quah Beng Kee and his four siblings in 1894, was later upgraded to became a vehicle and passenger service in 1925.

The operations of the ferries were later taken over in 1924 by Penang Port Sdn Bhd., a subsidiary of the Penang Port Commission (formerly Penang Harbour Board), and in 2017, it was then transferred from Penang Port Sdn. Bhd. to the Malaysian government owned Prasarana Malaysia for a token sum of RM1 and rebranded as Rapid Ferry.

I remember as a kid all the ferries were painted yellow and it was a joy when we crossed the straits as we would get down from the car to watch jellyfishes bobbing in the sea as the ferry passed by. 

Later on these ferries were given a coat of multicoloured paint (as in the picture taken in 2014) and in 2017, some of these iconic ferries even had attractions of Penang painted on them!

The iconic Penang Ferry (Pulau Angsa) as seen in 2014 from the Hean Boo Thean floating
temple in Weld Quay, Penang.

 

Alas the ferry service will come to an end as 2020 closes... and this Penang iconic monument with 125 years of service history will be relegated to mere mentions in history books and our fond memories of the past. Farewell to our beloved Penang Ferry!

Menurun....

Menurun or going in trance is part and parcel of the practice of Datuk Kong (Keramat) worship by Chinese Malaysians. It is the one of the ways in which devotees can communicate with the deity or keramat, and this process of  menurun or 'inviting' the keramat to possess the body of the spirit medium entails the generous burning of kemenyan (Styrax benzoin) that at times can leave the entire scene whitewashed in kemenyan smoke!

As the deity or keramat can be a local saint, or tree spirit or even past rulers of the land, the appearance of the mediums in trance with these deities are different, reflecting the origin of the deity summoned. Once the deity has 'arrived' in the body of the spirit medium, they would be dressed accordingly, and served with the deity's favourite beverage or smokes before any consultation session starts.

With each of the keramat being a different individual, the spirit medium upon being possessed by them will also take on a particular mannerism and characteristics associated with the deity; those are supposed to be possessed by an old saint will suddenly have shaky hands and need to walk with a cane, others being possessed by local spirits of wild animals will violently growl and grunt and act like the animal spirit, whilst those that are previous rulers will take on a regal and distinguished appearance and countenance.

Something old.. Something new - the Merdeka 118

Something new is beginning to stand up in kuala Lumpur - the Merdeka 118 tower. As of middle of this year, it is the tallest construction site in the world. When completed, it will be the world's second tallest skyscraper.

The Merdeka 118 tower under construction as seen from an old part of KL (the Zhong Shan
building in Kg. Attap).

Flower Power... the Florists of Chalai Bazaar Trivandrum

Chalai Bazaar in Trivandrum, Kerala India is a colourful and bustling market, and one of those where you have got be a little brave, and walk down the alleyways to shops hidden beyond the main thoroughfare. From plastic household items to fresh fruits, highland tea to hardware, and metal cooking pots to underwear, anything that you need in your house or for personal use, you can get it here.

 

But what I liked most are the florist/flower shops that are found here. Some only do the traditional Indian flower garlands and loose flowers for prayers, whilst others also sell modern bouquets for happy occasions and wreaths for funerals. So the next time you are in Trivandrum, spend some time in Chalai Bazaar and try to spot those shops and corner stalls that sell flower power, the florist of Chalai Bazaar.

Happy Deepavali 2020

Happy Deepavali/Diwali to all my friends who celebrate the Festival of Lights. May this festival bring you and your family brightness, joy and prosperity!

Streets of Kathmandu... Rugs for Sale

Looking back at the streets of Kathmandu... a Nepali rug seller with his goods hung out on display on the sidewalk of Tridevi Sadak, which is a stone's throw away from the famous Thamel district, photo taken in June 2016.

Errr.... Om Namah Shivaya Che Guevara???

Dou Mu and The Ninth Day of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival

The ninth day of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, which is the last day of the festival, is also the birthday (or more correctly the manifestation anniversary) of Dou Mu (斗姆元君), the Mother Goddess of the Nine Emperor Gods.

Prayers specifically to Dou Mu on this day to ask for her blessings are believed to be very efficacious, and temples would usually conduct this prayer today, besides holding the usual events for Nine Emperor Gods Festival such as fire walking or bridge crossing.

Unfortunately this year's festival had been dampened by the Covid-19 pandemic and is very much a non-event in many parts of Malaysia. And as we bid this year's not so happening Nine Emperor Gods Festival goodbye, we can only hope that next year we get to enjoy all the festivities as usual again.

Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020 Day 6 - A Different Feeding the Armies (犒军) Ceremony at Ampang

The Feeding of the Heavenly Armies Ceremony (Ko Kun - 犒军) during Nine Emperor Gods Festival at Ampang Nine Emperor Gods Temple is usually a very crowded and vibrant event, with devotees and onlookers jostling to get a glimpse of what is happening.

However, this year with the Covid-19 pandemic and the government imposed movement control order, it has resulted in a very different and strangely quiet ceremony, carried out only by the temple committee members sans the priest, large amount of food, mediums and thronging devotees  in white.

 

A Smoky but Silent Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020 at Ampang

Today is the eve of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020, and I decided to pass by Ampang Nine Emperor Gods temple at 5pm to see how things were going. The gates were locked and as you can see from the pictures, it was a silent affair due to the lock-down imposed by the government recently.

 

Despite being quiet and very unbecoming of the festival we know of, it was still smoky, as the temple caretakers had already lit the large joss sticks that had been ordered by devotees prior to the lock-down.

A truly different take on the festival this year, smoky.... but silent!

No Go for Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020 in Ampang and KL

Despite not planning to hold the usual festivities associated with Nine Emperor God Festival this year at Ampang Nine Emperor Gods temple (安邦南天宫九皇爷庙) due to the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic, they were all set up and ready for the coming festival to be celebrated in a simple manner, with areas for devotees to queue and orderly enter and exit the temple already drawn up according to the government required SOP. Even the huge dragon joss-sticks for the festival were ready and on display at the temple grounds since last weekend.

Alas, it looks like all Nine Emperor Gods temples in the whole Klang Valley area will fall silent this year, and devotees would not be able to celebrate the coming festival due to the recently announced CMCO (Conditional Movement Control Order) for Klang Valley starting October 14th by the government, which prohibits religious centers from operating at all and thus making the festival a no-go.

The decision on the CMCO for Klang Valley came quite suddenly, and temples in Klang Valley were caught off guard; for whilst most were not planning to hold large scale celebrations, nevertheless the majority of them were in the midst of prepping up their temples for low key prayers (like in Ampang) for devotees that still want to come in and pray during this festival. At Ampang Nan Tian Gong temple today, it was pretty heartbreaking to have witnessed the temple staff having to take down the colourful flags put up for the festival just days before the start of the festival.

Inside the temple, it was eerily quiet and quite obvious that the staff were not in high spirits, plus the inner hall was devoid of the usual donations of rice, cooking oil and other foodstuff that usually would have flooded the temple by this time of the year.

Perhaps this year is a good time to celebrate the festival in a calm and self-reflective mood, all thanks to the Covid-19 pandemic.

UPDATE: Apparently places of worship are now allowed to open with max 6 people inside their premises during the CMCO. However I do not foresee this changing the decision already taken by the temples to closing their doors to devotees.

The Day The Music Died... How the 'New Normal' has Affected the Ampang Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020

Today is exactly 7 days to the eve of this year's Nine Emperor Gods Festival, and as the festival draws near, one cannot help feel a little disappointed as nothing much is actually happening due to the Covid-19 pandemic.

With the ongoing Covid-19 situation in Malaysia, the decision was made by the the Ampang Nine Emperor Gods temple management on the 16th of September to cancel this year's festivities altogether, although the temple will still be open for worshipers. For me, the once in a year 'life' of Ampang New Village has literally being 'silenced' by this decision.

And that means there will be no loud Chinese opera music from the temple this year, no clanging of temple bells and lion dance troupes bashing cymbals and drums on the eve of the festival this year, no loud announcements from the temple of people looking for their relatives etc....

Looking back at one of my post from 2019 when I said that the festival has always been Same same but Different (click to read that post in 2019), little did I know that I would be be proven so wrong this year, with the festival turning out to be very, very different. Perhaps I should have taken back what I have said about the festival being a 'repeat year in year out'.

Perhaps all we can hope (and pray) for is that in 2021, the festival will return to normal, whatever normal might be then...

So here's a list of a few other things that we will be missing this year at Ampang without the Nine Emperor Gods Festival...

• Massive traffic crawl from Jalan Ampang leading to the temple.
  
• Friendly old aunties staying in the dorm (will miss seeing them having aged one more year)
  
• The crowd formed by devotees dressed all in white during the Feeding of the Heavenly Armies (Ko Kun)
• The stalls lining the roads leading to the temple and in the temple courtyard
• Processions for the invitation of the Nine Emperor Gods and Finance Minister
• Bridge crossing and fire walking and...
  
• Cheryl Hoffmann... she has gone back to be at her daughter's wedding (Congrats!!!)... I hope she will be back to join us in 2021
  

Next post - Covid-19 and the cancellation of Nine Emperor Gods Festival in Klang Valley:

• No Go for Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020 in Ampang and KL

Previous post in this countdown series to Nine Emperor Gods 2020 series:

• Fire and Purification - The Nine Emperor Gods Festival

Fire and Purification - The Nine Emperor Gods Festival

Just 10 more days to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020 - so here's a take on what happened during the festival in 2019.

Fire walking, which is associated with purification and the renewal of cosmic energy, is a common practice at Nine Emperor Gods Festival as a rite that allows devotees to be blessed and energized with the power of the divine Heaven. Seen here is a form of fire walking, called Crossing the Fire Gates (过火门), that was carried out at Jinjang Nine Emperor Gods Festival in 2019.

Next post in this countdown to Nine Emperor Gods 2020 series:

• The Day The Music Died... How the 'New Normal' has Affected the Ampang Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020

Previous post in this countdown series to Nine Emperor Gods 2020 series:

• Nine Emperor Gods Festival: Bizarre Body Piercings When the Spirits Descend...

Nine Emperor Gods Festival: Bizarre Body Piercings When the Spirits Descend...

Counting down to Nine Emperor Gods Festival which is only 13 days away (or 12 days to the eve of the festival), let us talk about one of the more intriguing visual aspects of this celebration.

Besides the yellow flags and vegetarian stalls, one of the many iconic images associated with the upcoming Nine Emperor Gods Festival you see on the internet are those of bizarre and extreme body piercings done by Thai spirit mediums (Mah Songs). Not only are the piercings large, the items used leaves little to the imagination and are often unreligious but consist of mundane household objects... bicycle, step-ladders, stand-fan, blades, swords, etc.

A spirit medium with a big rod through his cheek connected to a small push bike during the
2019 Kuala Pilah Nine Emperor Gods Festival procession

Whilst we seldom see such bizarre practices here in Malaysia, there are a few local mediums that do it, and there are also temples whom 'employ' mediums from Southern Thailand for this festival as a means to attract devotees and visitors to flock to their temple to witness this spectacle, as in the case of Kuala Pilah Nine Emperor Gods Temple.

Medium with lucky charms hanging from his cheek piercing. whilst the rod may look short and
unimposing for now, they will connect huge flages to both ends of the rod for the procession
through the town later on.

So why do these mediums carry out such bizarre piercings? Well, some believe that by inflicting pain or mutilating themselves, the gods that possesses the spirit medium are transferring bad luck and averting misfortune from the devotees onto themselves.

Piercing the cheek of a medium in trance....

Also the blood that flows from self-inflicted wounds are believed to be 'divine' blood as it flows from a body that carries the divine spirit, and thus is used to make 'blood talismans' i.e. talisman with blood from self-mutilations smeared onto them. That is why you see in the pictures here the mediums have talismans and lucky objects hanging from their piercings as to empower them with this 'divine' power.

Having a metal bar pierced through your cheek isn't a typical
job for the faint-heated or the uninitiated.

Next post in this countdown to Nine Emperor Gods 2020 series:

• Fire and Purification - The Nine Emperor Gods Festival

Previous post in this countdown to Nine Emperor Gods 2020 series:

• Will the Show Still Go On after Covid-19?? - Countdown to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020

Happy Mid-Autumn Festival 2020

Happy Mid-Autumn Festival (or Mooncake Festival) to all my friends. Pictured here is a type of mooncake called Moonlight Cake(月光饼) that is not frequently seen and is associated with the Hakka people.

This cake is very simple and made of glutinous rice flour, sugar, oil/shortening plus some flavouring like fragrant screw-pine (pandan). The cake when dry is powdery and crumbly, but exposed to humidity it becomes chewy and sticky. Not the usual rich and filling Cantonese style mooncakes but more than enough to give you a sugar rush.

The poem on the left is a popular poem associated with the moon and the Mid-Autumn Festival by a popular Chinese poet... take a guess which one is that.

Will the Show Still Go On after Covid-19?? - Countdown to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020

Amongst all of the culture and performing arts groups affected by Covid-19 pandemic in Malaysia, one group that stands out as receiving the brunt end of the deal are they opera troupes that perform for temple celebrations and festivals. This year has seen all of their appointments being canceled, including those for Nine Emperor Gods Festival that is drawing near. The question is will they survive the pandemic and still be there when it all ends? Or will the final curtain fall on them...

Looking back at these pictures of the ritual performance for the invitation ceremony of Jinjang Nine Emperor Gods Festival in 2019 by the Chinese opera troupe there brings back good memories; and our prayers goes out to them that may we see them again in 2021...

Next post in this countdown series:

• Nine Emperor Gods Festival: Bizarre Body Piercings When the Spirits Descend...

Previous post in this countdown to Nine Emperor Gods 2020 series:

• Looking Back at Familiar Faces in Sacred Spaces  - Countdown to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020
  

Looking Back at Familiar Faces in Sacred Spaces - Countdown to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020

As a continuation to my series of Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020 countdown posts (click to see previous post - Nine Emperor Gods (九皇大帝) Festival 2020: What to Expect This Year??), we take a look at a familiar face in a sacred space from last year's (2019) Nine Emperor Gods Festival, knowing that many familiar faces would not be seen in this year's Nine Emperor Gods celebration, either due to cancelled celebration or they are socially distanced and safe behind face mask; the unfortunate outcome of the Covid-19 pandemic.

A familiar face of Ampang's Nine Emperor Gods temple during the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, is
Ah Boon sifu, shown here in trance during the 2019 Nine Emperor Gods Festival.

Next post in this countdown series to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020

• Will the Show Still Go On after Covid-19?? - Countdown to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020
  

If you need a quick introduction to what Nine Emperor Gods (九皇爷) and this festivals is all about, you can read about it in my brief introductory post about Nine Emperor Gods:

• Nine Emperor Gods Festival - All About The What, Who, Why, When and Where of this Festival 

Nine Emperor Gods Festival - All About The What, Who, Why, When and Where of this Festival

What is the Nine Emperor Gods Festival?

The Nine Emperor Gods Festival (九皇爷诞) is a popular festival celebrated in South East Asia, particularly in areas that are the focal points of the Southern Chinese diaspora, like Phuket in Southern Thailand, Penang and Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia, Singapore and certain areas of Indonesia.

This festival is sometimes known as Vegetarian Festival or Tesagan Gin Je in Thailand. Interestingly, this festival does not exist in Mainland China or Taiwan, and is distinctive to the Chinese diaspora outside China. Unique to this festival is the 9 day duration (10 days if you include activities on the eve of the festival), and devotees that wear white and use white or yellow candles and joss-sticks to pray instead of the usual red ones.

A lantern with nine lamps (高燈 or 九曲燈 - pic below) is raised on the eve of the festival to inform the gods that the celebration is happening at the location and an invitation ceremony, that is usually very festive, to invite the Nine Emperor Gods from a body of water usually happens later that day.

At the end of the festival, the Nine Emperor Gods are sent off back to the body of water that they were invited from, usually with another procession consisting of priest, mediums and devotees.

Who are the Nine Emperor Gods (九皇爺 / 九皇大帝)?

The exact origin of the Nine Emperor Gods (九皇大帝) worshiped is unclear, and there are many versions of the origin of this worship. The practice seems to be an amalgamated practice of Taoist Li Dou (Big Dipper Prayer) mixed in with folk spirit worship.

The Nine Emperor Gods are sometimes said to be the nine sons of Dou Mu (斗母), the Mother Goddess of the Taoist pantheon and hence a lot of Nine Emperor Gods temples are called Dou Mu Gong (斗母宮) - literally the Mother of Dipper Star Palace. There is also the version that associates the Nine Emperor Gods with nine Ming Dynasty heroes who fought to overthrow the Qing Dynasty that were beheaded.

In some places like Ampang, there is another version linking the Nine Emperor Gods as a product of the secret society (Hong Secret Society - 洪門會) trying to hide their activities from the law. Regardless of which story you believe in, the worship of Nine Emperor Gods are very popular with the local devotees and their efficacy in answering prayers attested to.

Why do people worship these Nine Emperor Gods?

Whilst there are many (muddled) versions of how this festival started, it all points down to being able to seek help from a higher source to help them with their lives. The festival is a chance for them to pray for a better future, or to purify themselves by participating in rituals associated with this festival such as bridge crossing and fire-walking. Also one can engage Taoist priest to conduct luck opening or luck increasing ceremonies during this festival which is said to be very efficacious.

When does this festival happen?

This festival is celebrated from the 1st day to the 9th day of the 9th month of the Chinese lunisolar calendar. The dates usually fall around late Sept to mid Oct in the Gregorian calendar. Bear in mind that the festival actually starts on the eve of the celebration with the nine lamp lantern pole raising.

• In 2020 - 17th till the 25th of October.
• In 2021 - 4th till the 13th of October.
• In 2022 - 24th of September till the 3rd of October.
  

Where can I read up more about this festival?

• A good start is this academic paper by Cheu Hock Tong entitled -  The Festival of the Nine Emperor Gods in Malaysia: Myth, Ritual, and Symbol.
  
• Read my past postings in 2016 to find out more about the little details of this festival:
  
• ⇒  Nine Emperor Gods Festival Countdown - 11 More Days until...
  
• ⇒  Nine Emperor Gods Festival Countdown - 1 More Day.
  
• Google it...there are lots of resources and views on the festival online.
  

What is this 'Zhai' (斋) banner that I see on food stalls all about?

During this festival, one will surely not miss the yellow coloured banner with the character 斋 (zhai), usually in red. On the surface, this 'zhai' seems to represent the food ie vegetarianism that is associated with this festival, but in actual fact the Chinese character means abstinence or fast. So what do the devotees supposedly fast from?

1. Meat/animal products including dairy and eggs ( this includes wearing leather garments/items)
   
2. Five pungent root vegetables (onion, garlic, leek, garlic chives, spring onion) - although some only abstain from garlic.
3. Alcohol (allowed in some places, especially where beer companies sponsor the temple banners).
   
4. Sexual contact.
   
5. Negative actions, feelings and thoughts.

Hence the food that is sold for this festival is more akin to vegan food (minus the pungent vegetables) than just being vegetarian. Also the cooking utensils and eating cutlery must also be clean and have not come in contact with animal/meat products.

In reality, this festival is not just about the food being 'pure', but  the other aspects of the abstinence should be practiced in order to achieve the purification and blessings associated with the festival.

Who are the half naked guys in costumes running around?

Those are the spirit medium that are part and parcel of this celebration. During the invitation ceremony, they also serve to usher the spirit of the nine emperor gods to descend (besides the priest's incantations), and to conduct certain rituals for the benefit of the devotees which includes empowering talismans, fire-walking etc.

Why do these mediums self-immolate and take on bizarre body piercings?

One is to purify the space and also to protect the devotees. The blood shed from this immolation is a form of self-sacrifice, and since they are supposedly possessed by deities when doing so, the blood has protective power that can be used to clean a space, or empower talismans.

The bizarre and sometimes brutal piercing also serves to prove to devotees that they are indeed possessed by gods, as they appear to feel no pain, and the wound heal quickly once the piercings are removed.

When can you see these spirit mediums in action?

The deities are usually called upon to possess the mediums during rituals associated with the festival such as the lantern pole raising ceremony, the invitation ceremony, on certain days where they feed the heavenly armies that guards the temples, during processions to bless the area and devotees, and during rituals like bridge crossing or fire-walking.

Where does this festival happen?

Like they say, it is all about location, location, and location - basically wherever there are Nine Emperor Gods temple.

Phuket does the spirit mediums (as well as the festival) to the utmost intensity and fervor that is unmatched in other places. However if you are squeamish about brutal piercings, huge crowds and firecrackers going off at every corner, then Malaysia and Singapore are more suitable for you as a start to look into the festival.

Just look out for huge temple flags/banners or yellow lanterns set out along the roads leading to the temple, usually emblazoned with the Chinese words 九皇大帝 (Nine Emperor Gods) and you will be able to find them.

Next post in my countdown to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020 series: Looking Back at Familiar Faces in Sacred Spaces - Countdown to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020

Take note that the festival this year (2020) will either be scaled down or cancelled altogether in many places due to the Covid-19 pandemic (click to read post - So Near Yet So Far - A Different Nine Emperor Gods Festival for 2020.)

Please check with the respective temples if they are holding the festival and if one can attend the various ceremonies that they carry out.