Tuesday, December 29, 2020

Menurun....

Siprit medium going into trance (menurun)

Menurun or going in trance is part and parcel of the practice of Datuk Kong (Keramat) worship by Chinese Malaysians. It is the one of the ways in which devotees can communicate with the deity or keramat, and this process of  menurun or 'inviting' the keramat to possess the body of the spirit medium entails the generous burning of kemenyan (Styrax benzoin) that at times can leave the entire scene whitewashed in kemenyan smoke!

Two Datuk Kong mediums paying respect to each other during trance.

Datuk Kong medium in trance giving instructions to devotee

Datuk Kong medium in trance giving consultation to devotee.

As the deity or keramat can be a local saint, or tree spirit or even past rulers of the land, the appearance of the mediums in trance with these deities are different, reflecting the origin of the deity summoned. Once the deity has 'arrived' in the body of the spirit medium, they would be dressed accordingly, and served with the deity's favourite beverage or smokes before any consultation session starts.

With each of the keramat being a different individual, the spirit medium upon being possessed by them will also take on a particular mannerism and characteristics associated with the deity; those are supposed to be possessed by an old saint will suddenly have shaky hands and need to walk with a cane, others being possessed by local spirits of wild animals will violently growl and grunt and act like the animal spirit, whilst those that are previous rulers will take on a regal and distinguished appearance and countenance.

Tuesday, December 15, 2020

Something old.. Something new - the Merdeka 118

Something new is beginning to stand up in kuala Lumpur - the Merdeka 118 tower. As of middle of this year, it is the tallest construction site in the world. When completed, it will be the world's second tallest skyscraper.

The Merdeka 118 tower under construction as seen from an old part of KL (the Zhong Shan
building in Kg. Attap).


Monday, November 23, 2020

Flower Power... the Florists of Chalai Bazaar Trivandrum

Chalai Bazaar in Trivandrum, Kerala India is a colourful and bustling market, and one of those where you have got be a little brave, and walk down the alleyways to shops hidden beyond the main thoroughfare. From plastic household items to fresh fruits, highland tea to hardware, and metal cooking pots to underwear, anything that you need in your house or for personal use, you can get it here.
 
But what I liked most are the florist/flower shops that are found here. Some only do the traditional Indian flower garlands and loose flowers for prayers, whilst others also sell modern bouquets for happy occasions and wreaths for funerals. So the next time you are in Trivandrum, spend some time in Chalai Bazaar and try to spot those shops and corner stalls that sell flower power, the florist of Chalai Bazaar.

Traditional Indian Flower shop in Chalai Bazaar Trivandrum Kerala India

Indian Flower Shop in Chalai Bazaar, Trivandrum

Florist in Chalai Bazaar, Trivandrum India

Indian flower stall in Chalai Bazaar, Trivandrum, Kerala, india


Saturday, November 14, 2020

Happy Deepavali 2020

Happy Deepavali/Diwali to all my friends who celebrate the Festival of Lights. May this festival bring you and your family brightness, joy and prosperity!


Sunday, November 01, 2020

Streets of Kathmandu... Rugs for Sale

Looking back at the streets of Kathmandu... a Nepali rug seller with his goods hung out on display on the sidewalk of Tridevi Sadak, which is a stone's throw away from the famous Thamel district, photo taken in June 2016.

Shiva, Che Guevara and various other rugs on sale on the streets of Kathmandu in 2016
Errr.... Om Namah Shivaya Che Guevara???

Sunday, October 25, 2020

Dou Mu and The Ninth Day of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival

The ninth day of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, which is the last day of the festival, is also the birthday (or more correctly the manifestation anniversary) of Dou Mu (斗姆元君), the Mother Goddess of the Nine Emperor Gods.

Prayers specifically to Dou Mu on this day to ask for her blessings are believed to be very efficacious, and temples would usually conduct this prayer today, besides holding the usual events for Nine Emperor Gods Festival such as fire walking or bridge crossing.

Pak Thian Kiong Temple (北天宮) Dou Mu

Unfortunately this year's festival had been dampened by the Covid-19 pandemic and is very much a non-event in many parts of Malaysia. And as we bid this year's not so happening Nine Emperor Gods Festival goodbye, we can only hope that next year we get to enjoy all the festivities as usual again.

Pak Thian Kiong Temple (北天宮) Dou Mu altar

Dou Mu reflection on the oil lamp on PJ Section 17 Tow Boo Keong (斗母宫) altar

Thursday, October 22, 2020

Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020 Day 6 - A Different Feeding the Armies (犒军) Ceremony at Ampang

The Feeding of the Heavenly Armies Ceremony (Ko Kun - 犒军) during Nine Emperor Gods Festival at Ampang Nine Emperor Gods Temple is usually a very crowded and vibrant event, with devotees and onlookers jostling to get a glimpse of what is happening.

However, this year with the Covid-19 pandemic and the government imposed movement control order, it has resulted in a very different and strangely quiet ceremony, carried out only by the temple committee members sans the priest, large amount of food, mediums and thronging devotees  in white.
 






Friday, October 16, 2020

A Smoky but Silent Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020 at Ampang

Today is the eve of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020, and I decided to pass by Ampang Nine Emperor Gods temple at 5pm to see how things were going. The gates were locked and as you can see from the pictures, it was a silent affair due to the lock-down imposed by the government recently.
 
Despite being quiet and very unbecoming of the festival we know of, it was still smoky, as the temple caretakers had already lit the large joss sticks that had been ordered by devotees prior to the lock-down.

Quiet Nine Emperor Gods temple on the eve of the nine Emperor Gods Festival

Joss sticks lit up for Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020

Smoky but silent at Ampang Nine Emperor Gods temple

A truly different take on the festival this year, smoky.... but silent!

Tuesday, October 13, 2020

No Go for Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020 in Ampang and KL

Despite not planning to hold the usual festivities associated with Nine Emperor God Festival this year at Ampang Nine Emperor Gods temple (安邦南天宫九皇爷庙) due to the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic, they were all set up and ready for the coming festival to be celebrated in a simple manner, with areas for devotees to queue and orderly enter and exit the temple already drawn up according to the government required SOP. Even the huge dragon joss-sticks for the festival were ready and on display at the temple grounds since last weekend.

Dragon joss-sticks at Ampang Nine Emperor Gods Temple

Alas, it looks like all Nine Emperor Gods temples in the whole Klang Valley area will fall silent this year, and devotees would not be able to celebrate the coming festival due to the recently announced CMCO (Conditional Movement Control Order) for Klang Valley starting October 14th by the government, which prohibits religious centers from operating at all and thus making the festival a no-go.

The decision on the CMCO for Klang Valley came quite suddenly, and temples in Klang Valley were caught off guard; for whilst most were not planning to hold large scale celebrations, nevertheless the majority of them were in the midst of prepping up their temples for low key prayers (like in Ampang) for devotees that still want to come in and pray during this festival. At Ampang Nan Tian Gong temple today, it was pretty heartbreaking to have witnessed the temple staff having to take down the colourful flags put up for the festival just days before the start of the festival.

Nine Emperor Gods Festival flags being taken down at Ampang

Joss-sticks, joss paper and white candles for the Nine Emperor Gods Festival

Inside the temple, it was eerily quiet and quite obvious that the staff were not in high spirits, plus the inner hall was devoid of the usual donations of rice, cooking oil and other foodstuff that usually would have flooded the temple by this time of the year.

Perhaps this year is a good time to celebrate the festival in a calm and self-reflective mood, all thanks to the Covid-19 pandemic.


UPDATE: Apparently places of worship are now allowed to open with max 6 people inside their premises during the CMCO. However I do not foresee this changing the decision already taken by the temples to closing their doors to devotees.

Friday, October 09, 2020

The Day The Music Died... How the 'New Normal' has Affected the Ampang Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020

Today is exactly 7 days to the eve of this year's Nine Emperor Gods Festival, and as the festival draws near, one cannot help feel a little disappointed as nothing much is actually happening due to the Covid-19 pandemic.

With the ongoing Covid-19 situation in Malaysia, the decision was made by the the Ampang Nine Emperor Gods temple management on the 16th of September to cancel this year's festivities altogether, although the temple will still be open for worshipers. For me, the once in a year 'life' of Ampang New Village has literally being 'silenced' by this decision.

And that means there will be no loud Chinese opera music from the temple this year, no clanging of temple bells and lion dance troupes bashing cymbals and drums on the eve of the festival this year, no loud announcements from the temple of people looking for their relatives etc....

Ampang Nine Emperor Gods temple refelcted on a puddle of water

Looking back at one of my post from 2019 when I said that the festival has always been Same same but Different (click to read that post in 2019), little did I know that I would be be proven so wrong this year, with the festival turning out to be very, very different. Perhaps I should have taken back what I have said about the festival being a 'repeat year in year out'.

Perhaps all we can hope (and pray) for is that in 2021, the festival will return to normal, whatever normal might be then...

So here's a list of a few other things that we will be missing this year at Ampang without the Nine Emperor Gods Festival...

  • Massive traffic crawl from Jalan Ampang leading to the temple.
  • Friendly old aunties staying in the dorm (will miss seeing them having aged one more year)
  • The crowd formed by devotees dressed all in white during the Feeding of the Heavenly Armies (Ko Kun)
  • The stalls lining the roads leading to the temple and in the temple courtyard
  • Processions for the invitation of the Nine Emperor Gods and Finance Minister
  • Bridge crossing and fire walking and...
  • Cheryl Hoffmann... she has gone back to be at her daughter's wedding (Congrats!!!)... I hope she will be back to join us in 2021

Next post - Covid-19 and the cancellation of Nine Emperor Gods Festival in Klang Valley:

Previous post in this countdown series to Nine Emperor Gods 2020 series:

Wednesday, October 07, 2020

Fire and Purification - The Nine Emperor Gods Festival


Just 10 more days to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020 - so here's a take on what happened during the festival in 2019.
Crossing the Fire Gates (过火门) at Jinjang Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019

Fire walking, which is associated with purification and the renewal of cosmic energy, is a common practice at Nine Emperor Gods Festival as a rite that allows devotees to be blessed and energized with the power of the divine Heaven. Seen here is a form of fire walking, called Crossing the Fire Gates (过火门), that was carried out at Jinjang Nine Emperor Gods Festival in 2019.

Next post in this countdown to Nine Emperor Gods 2020 series:

Previous post in this countdown series to Nine Emperor Gods 2020 series:

Sunday, October 04, 2020

Nine Emperor Gods Festival: Bizarre Body Piercings When the Spirits Descend...


Counting down to Nine Emperor Gods Festival which is only 13 days away (or 12 days to the eve of the festival), let us talk about one of the more intriguing visual aspects of this celebration.

Besides the yellow flags and vegetarian stalls, one of the many iconic images associated with the upcoming Nine Emperor Gods Festival you see on the internet are those of bizarre and extreme body piercings done by Thai spirit mediums (Mah Songs). Not only are the piercings large, the items used leaves little to the imagination and are often unreligious but consist of mundane household objects... bicycle, step-ladders, stand-fan, blades, swords, etc.

Thai spirit medium with bizarre piercing of small bicycle
A spirit medium with a big rod through his cheek connected to a small push bike during the
2019 Kuala Pilah Nine Emperor Gods Festival procession

Whilst we seldom see such bizarre practices here in Malaysia, there are a few local mediums that do it, and there are also temples whom 'employ' mediums from Southern Thailand for this festival as a means to attract devotees and visitors to flock to their temple to witness this spectacle, as in the case of Kuala Pilah Nine Emperor Gods Temple.

Spirit medium with talismans hanging from metal rod pierced through cheek.
Medium with lucky charms hanging from his cheek piercing. whilst the rod may look short and
unimposing for now, they will connect huge flages to both ends of the rod for the procession
through the town later on.

So why do these mediums carry out such bizarre piercings? Well, some believe that by inflicting pain or mutilating themselves, the gods that possesses the spirit medium are transferring bad luck and averting misfortune from the devotees onto themselves.

Spirit medium getting pierced for Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019
Piercing the cheek of a medium in trance....

Also the blood that flows from self-inflicted wounds are believed to be 'divine' blood as it flows from a body that carries the divine spirit, and thus is used to make 'blood talismans' i.e. talisman with blood from self-mutilations smeared onto them. That is why you see in the pictures here the mediums have talismans and lucky objects hanging from their piercings as to empower them with this 'divine' power.

Thai spirit medium with bizarre piercing of small bicycle
Having a metal bar pierced through your cheek isn't a typical
job for the faint-heated or the uninitiated.

Next post in this countdown to Nine Emperor Gods 2020 series:

Previous post in this countdown to Nine Emperor Gods 2020 series:

Thursday, October 01, 2020

Happy Mid-Autumn Festival 2020

Happy Mid-Autumn Festival (or Mooncake Festival) to all my friends. Pictured here is a type of mooncake called Moonlight Cake(月光饼) that is not frequently seen and is associated with the Hakka people.

月光饼

This cake is very simple and made of glutinous rice flour, sugar, oil/shortening plus some flavouring like fragrant screw-pine (pandan). The cake when dry is powdery and crumbly, but exposed to humidity it becomes chewy and sticky. Not the usual rich and filling Cantonese style mooncakes but more than enough to give you a sugar rush.

The poem on the left is a popular poem associated with the moon and the Mid-Autumn Festival by a popular Chinese poet... take a guess which one is that.


Tuesday, September 29, 2020

Will the Show Still Go On after Covid-19?? - Countdown to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020


Amongst all of the culture and performing arts groups affected by Covid-19 pandemic in Malaysia, one group that stands out as receiving the brunt end of the deal are they opera troupes that perform for temple celebrations and festivals. This year has seen all of their appointments being canceled, including those for Nine Emperor Gods Festival that is drawing near. The question is will they survive the pandemic and still be there when it all ends? Or will the final curtain fall on them...

Looking back at these pictures of the ritual performance for the invitation ceremony of Jinjang Nine Emperor Gods Festival in 2019 by the Chinese opera troupe there brings back good memories; and our prayers goes out to them that may we see them again in 2021...

Opera performance for Nine Emperor Gods invitation ceremony
Nine Emperor Gods invitation ritual with opera show
Nine Emperor Gods invitation performance by opera troupe in Jinjang

Next post in this countdown series:

Previous post in this countdown to Nine Emperor Gods 2020 series:

Sunday, September 27, 2020

Looking Back at Familiar Faces in Sacred Spaces - Countdown to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020

As a continuation to my series of Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020 countdown posts (click to see previous post - Nine Emperor Gods (九皇大帝) Festival 2020: What to Expect This Year??), we take a look at a familiar face in a sacred space from last year's (2019) Nine Emperor Gods Festival, knowing that many familiar faces would not be seen in this year's Nine Emperor Gods celebration, either due to cancelled celebration or they are socially distanced and safe behind face mask; the unfortunate outcome of the Covid-19 pandemic.

Nine Emperor Gods medium from Ampang temple in trance 2019
A familiar face of Ampang's Nine Emperor Gods temple during the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, is
Ah Boon sifu, shown here in trance during the 2019 Nine Emperor Gods Festival.

Next post in this countdown series to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020


If you need a quick introduction to what Nine Emperor Gods (九皇爷) and this festivals is all about, you can read about it in my brief introductory post about Nine Emperor Gods:


Friday, September 25, 2020

Nine Emperor Gods Festival - All About The What, Who, Why, When and Where of this Festival


What is the Nine Emperor Gods Festival?


The Nine Emperor Gods Festival (九皇爷诞) is a popular festival celebrated in South East Asia, particularly in areas that are the focal points of the Southern Chinese diaspora, like Phuket in Southern Thailand, Penang and Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia, Singapore and certain areas of Indonesia.

This festival is sometimes known as Vegetarian Festival or Tesagan Gin Je in Thailand. Interestingly, this festival does not exist in Mainland China or Taiwan, and is distinctive to the Chinese diaspora outside China. Unique to this festival is the 9 day duration (10 days if you include activities on the eve of the festival), and devotees that wear white and use white or yellow candles and joss-sticks to pray instead of the usual red ones.

A lantern with nine lamps (高燈 or 九曲燈 - pic below) is raised on the eve of the festival to inform the gods that the celebration is happening at the location and an invitation ceremony, that is usually very festive, to invite the Nine Emperor Gods from a body of water usually happens later that day.

Nine lamp lantern (高燈/九曲燈) raised during Nine Emperor Gods Festival

At the end of the festival, the Nine Emperor Gods are sent off back to the body of water that they were invited from, usually with another procession consisting of priest, mediums and devotees.

Ampang Nine Emperor Gods Festival prayer


Who are the Nine Emperor Gods (九皇爺 / 九皇大帝)?

The exact origin of the Nine Emperor Gods (九皇大帝) worshiped is unclear, and there are many versions of the origin of this worship. The practice seems to be an amalgamated practice of Taoist Li Dou (Big Dipper Prayer) mixed in with folk spirit worship.

The Nine Emperor Gods are sometimes said to be the nine sons of Dou Mu (斗母), the Mother Goddess of the Taoist pantheon and hence a lot of Nine Emperor Gods temples are called Dou Mu Gong (斗母宮) - literally the Mother of Dipper Star Palace. There is also the version that associates the Nine Emperor Gods with nine Ming Dynasty heroes who fought to overthrow the Qing Dynasty that were beheaded.


In some places like Ampang, there is another version linking the Nine Emperor Gods as a product of the secret society (Hong Secret Society - 洪門會) trying to hide their activities from the law. Regardless of which story you believe in, the worship of Nine Emperor Gods are very popular with the local devotees and their efficacy in answering prayers attested to.


Why do people worship these Nine Emperor Gods?

Whilst there are many (muddled) versions of how this festival started, it all points down to being able to seek help from a higher source to help them with their lives. The festival is a chance for them to pray for a better future, or to purify themselves by participating in rituals associated with this festival such as bridge crossing and fire-walking. Also one can engage Taoist priest to conduct luck opening or luck increasing ceremonies during this festival which is said to be very efficacious.


When does this festival happen?

This festival is celebrated from the 1st day to the 9th day of the 9th month of the Chinese lunisolar calendar. The dates usually fall around late Sept to mid Oct in the Gregorian calendar. Bear in mind that the festival actually starts on the eve of the celebration with the nine lamp lantern pole raising.
  • In 2020 - 17th till the 25th of October.
  • In 2021 - 4th till the 13th of October.
  • In 2022 - 24th of September till the 3rd of October.


Where can I read up more about this festival?


What is this 'Zhai' (斋) banner that I see on food stalls all about?


During this festival, one will surely not miss the yellow coloured banner with the character 斋 (zhai), usually in red. On the surface, this 'zhai' seems to represent the food ie vegetarianism that is associated with this festival, but in actual fact the Chinese character means abstinence or fast. So what do the devotees supposedly fast from?
  1. Meat/animal products including dairy and eggs ( this includes wearing leather garments/items)
  2. Five pungent root vegetables (onion, garlic, leek, garlic chives, spring onion) - although some only abstain from garlic.
  3. Alcohol (allowed in some places, especially where beer companies sponsor the temple banners).
  4. Sexual contact.
  5. Negative actions, feelings and thoughts.
Hence the food that is sold for this festival is more akin to vegan food (minus the pungent vegetables) than just being vegetarian. Also the cooking utensils and eating cutlery must also be clean and have not come in contact with animal/meat products.

In reality, this festival is not just about the food being 'pure', but  the other aspects of the abstinence should be practiced in order to achieve the purification and blessings associated with the festival.


Who are the half naked guys in costumes running around?

Those are the spirit medium that are part and parcel of this celebration. During the invitation ceremony, they also serve to usher the spirit of the nine emperor gods to descend (besides the priest's incantations), and to conduct certain rituals for the benefit of the devotees which includes empowering talismans, fire-walking etc.

Spirit medium running across fire pit in Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2019


Why do these mediums self-immolate and take on bizarre body piercings?

One is to purify the space and also to protect the devotees. The blood shed from this immolation is a form of self-sacrifice, and since they are supposedly possessed by deities when doing so, the blood has protective power that can be used to clean a space, or empower talismans.

The bizarre and sometimes brutal piercing also serves to prove to devotees that they are indeed possessed by gods, as they appear to feel no pain, and the wound heal quickly once the piercings are removed.

Nine Emperor Gods Festival Jinjang 2015 - pierced spirit medium


When can you see these spirit mediums in action?

The deities are usually called upon to possess the mediums during rituals associated with the festival such as the lantern pole raising ceremony, the invitation ceremony, on certain days where they feed the heavenly armies that guards the temples, during processions to bless the area and devotees, and during rituals like bridge crossing or fire-walking.


Where does this festival happen?

Like they say, it is all about location, location, and location - basically wherever there are Nine Emperor Gods temple.

Phuket does the spirit mediums (as well as the festival) to the utmost intensity and fervor that is unmatched in other places. However if you are squeamish about brutal piercings, huge crowds and firecrackers going off at every corner, then Malaysia and Singapore are more suitable for you as a start to look into the festival.

Just look out for huge temple flags/banners or yellow lanterns set out along the roads leading to the temple, usually emblazoned with the Chinese words 九皇大帝 (Nine Emperor Gods) and you will be able to find them.

Yellow lanterns from Jinjang Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2018


Next post in my countdown to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020 series: Looking Back at Familiar Faces in Sacred Spaces - Countdown to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020

Take note that the festival this year (2020) will either be scaled down or cancelled altogether in many places due to the Covid-19 pandemic (click to read post - So Near Yet So Far - A Different Nine Emperor Gods Festival for 2020.)

Please check with the respective temples if they are holding the festival and if one can attend the various ceremonies that they carry out.

Monday, September 21, 2020

Nine Emperor Gods (九皇大帝) Festival 2020 - What to Expect This Year??

The Nine Emperor Gods Festival for 2020 falls on 16 Oct 2020 (eve) till 25 Oct 2020 (ninth day). So what can we expect of this year's celebration? How different would it be from previous years' celebration? Already many Nine Emperor Gods temples in Malaysia are announcing that they will scale down and only allow prayers for this festival, sans all the procession, trances, stalls and festivities associated with this festival.

Collection of 九皇大帝 talimans from Ampang Nine Emperor Gods Temple
 
From a devotee's point of view, many are feeling a little lost as some may have vowed to stay in the temple for nine days due to prayers being answered in the previous year, of which now they cannot fulfil this year due to the Covid-19 pandemic.

Some having 'borrowed' money from the temple (ie borrowed luck or wealth from the gods) are asking will they still be able to come and repay the 'debt' this year. Will there be vegetarian food stalls open for those who usually get their vegetarian meals outside?

Whilst we are keeping our spirits high, there are still more questions than answers for this year's celebration.... but hopefully all will be better the next year.

Saturday, September 19, 2020

Let's Start With a Trip Down Memory Lane - Countdown to Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020

The Nine Emperor Gods Festival 2020 is less than a month away, (27 days away to be exact) ... So let's start the countdown to this year's Nine Emperor Gods Festival by looking back at last year's pics in anticipation that this year's festival will be starkly different due to the Covid-19 pandemic.

Piercing at Si Thian Kong (西天宫 九皇爷) Nine Emperor Gods festival 2019
Cucuk... (Piercing). Thai mediums at Kuala Pilah Nine Emperor Gods Temple (Si Thian Kong)
undergo piercing for the festival parade in 2019.


See also my previous post - So Near Yet So Far - A Different Nine Emperor Gods Festival for 2020 for a short clip of Jinjang Nine Emperor Gods Festival in 2019.